Hummus bi Tahina

Here’s my starting position for the classic middle eastern chick pea dip. Such things are always a matter of personal taste so adjust away to your heart’s content.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 8 hours
cooking time: 2 hours

Ingredients

  • 250g dried chick peas
  • 100g tahina
  • 1 lemon, juice of
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • salt and pepper

Method

Soak the chick peas overnight in cold water. Drain them, add them to a saucepan and cover them well with cold fresh water. Do not add salt – it will toughen the chick peas and they’ll never get tender. bring them to the boil, skim any scum that rises to the surface, lower the heat and simnmer gently for about about 1 1/2 hours. Test the chick peas to see if they’re tender; if not continue simmering until they are. (I find it can often take 2 hours – top up with boiling water to keep the peas covered with water throughout.) Drain the peas in a collander reserving the cooking water. Allow everything to cool.

When everything is cool, put the peas in the bowl of a food processor. Add the tahina, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, pepper and salt (say, 1 tsp to start with). Blitz everything together adding enough cooking water from the chick peas to achieve a smooth paste of the desired consistency (that is, something that is suitable for dipping pitta bread). Taste and adjust the seasonings (salt, pepper, lemon juice, olive oil, even tahina) to your liking.


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Herb Crusted Lamb

This is my take on best end of lamb with a herb crust (originally Carré d’Agneau Provençale in Raymond Blanc’s Cooking for Friends . The original uses white breadcrumbs and a lesser quantity of dried herbs but I like this stronger flavour. This is one of the few times that I think rare(ish) lamb is right.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • 100g fresh brown breadcrumbs
  • 2 tbs chopped fresh parsley
  • ½ tbs chopped fresh thyme leaves
  • ½ tbs chopped fresh rosemary
  • salt & pepper
  • 2 best ends of lamb, French trimmed
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 tbs Dijon mustard

Method

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas 8.

Now make the breadcrumb coating by mixing all the herbs with the breadcrumbs and seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.

Most people’s idea of French trimming isn’t quite severe enough for this recipe so check that all the fat is removed from the lamb and that only the eye of meat remains attached to the bones.

Heat the olive oil in a roasting pan on top of the stove and seal the lamb on all sides. Remove the lamb and put a rack (or some other suitable support) into the roasting pan and put the lamb back on top. Roast in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven and season with salt and pepper. Smear mustard all over the meat (not the bones – it will burn) then use this to stick the breadcrumb mixture all over the lamb. Roast again for another 12 – 15 mins (the lamb should remain pink in the middle). Allow the lamb to rest, loosely covered with foil, for a few minutes before serving cut into single-bone slices.

I like to serve this with Ratatouille and boiled new potatoes.


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Grilled Chicory with Serrano Ham

This is adapted from Sam and Sam Clark’s Moro book. Serrano is probably my favourite ham and it goes particularly well with the grilled chicory here.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 15 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 fl oz Sherry vinegar
  • ½ clove garlic
  • ½ tsp fresh thyme leaves
  • large pinch fine sea salt
  • pinch black pepper
  • 3 tbs olive oil
  • 2 large chicory heads
  • 12 slices serrano ham

Method

First, make the dressing. Simmer the Sherry vinegar in a small pan over moderate heat and reduce it to about a tablespoon. (This should take 1 – 2 mins.) Allow to cool. Mash the garlic and thyme with a large knife then work it to a paste with the sea salt. Stir in vinegar reduction and pepper and whisk until blended.

Cut each chicory head lengthwise into six wedges. Heat a ridged grill pan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Grill the chicory wedges on all sides until charred and slightly softened.

Arrange three slices of ham folded rakishly on one side of each of four serving plates. Add three pieces of chicory to the other side of each plate and drizzle the dressing over the chicory. (You can serve the chicory warm or cold – it will keep for about two hours if you want to get ahead.)


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Green Papaya Salad

In Thailand, we had this green papaya salad almost as much as we had chicken green curry. Before finding a source of green papaya, I made it using under-ripe conference pears as a substitute. Now, having done both, I prefer the substitute. Either way, it makes a great starter to a Thai meal.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 40 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 3 red birds eye chillis
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 3 under-ripe conference pears
  • 6 cherry tomatoes
  • 50g fine green beans
  • 3 tbs roasted unsalted peanuts
  • 2 tbs lime juice
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • 2 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 round lettuce

Method

Deseed and finely chop the chillis, then add them to a glass bowl (large enough to take all the pear as well). Skin and crush the garlic cloves into the bowl with the chillis. Now peel and core the pears and cut them into long, very fine julienne strips, adding them to the bowl as you go. After you’ve added half the pear, pound it together with the chilli and garlic in the bowl. Then add the rest of the pear and pound again. Now dress the pear with half the lime juice and stir well. (This helps the pear stop discolouring and you can now safely leave the salad like this until you serve it.)

Wash and chop the green beans into short lengths. Quarter the cherry tomatoes. Mix together the remaining lime juice and fish sauce and stir in the caster sugar to dissolve.

When you are ready to serve, wash and drain the round lettuce and dress 4 plates with leaves. Add the lime juice and fish sauce mixture to the pear and stir again before piling the pear strips into the centre of the lined plates. Sprinkle over the green beans and peanuts then add the cherry tomato quarters and serve.


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Greek Salad

Another of the world’s great salads. Greek salad does not traditionally have any leaves but, I confess, I do like to add some. This is entirely a matter of personal choice, depending upon whether you want more bulk or more traditional.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 6 large tomatoes
  • 1 cucumber
  • 2 green peppers
  • 1 red onion
  • salad leaves (optional)
  • fetta cheese
  • 24 black olives
  • a handful fresh oregano leaves
  • 4 tbs olive oil
  • 1 tbs red wine vinegar
  • salt & pepper

Method

Quarter each tomato, then halve each quarter. I like to peel the cucumber but that’s up to you. Then quarter the cucumber lengthwise and cut it into 1½cm chunks (ish). Core, deseed and halve the pepper, then slice it finely. Peel, halve and finely slice the red onion. Cut the fetta cheese into chunks of about 1cm. If you’re using them, tear the salad leaves into manageable pieces. In a salad bowl, combine all the above and add the black olives and oregano leaves.

In a salad shaker, mix the oil and vinegar with a pinch of salt and few grindings of black pepper. Dress the salad and mix all together immediately prior to serving.


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Fish Tagine

Any excuse at all to use some home-made preserved lemon or lime is welcome. In my view, they are the reason for eating so many tagines. This fish version benefits from quite strongly flavoured fish, such as gurnard or mackerel.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 red onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 tbs groundnut oil
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp ginger
  • 1 stick cinnamon
  • 1 preserved lemon (or lime)
  • 12 green olives, stoned and chopped
  • 1 tbs harrisa paste
  • 4 fl oz dry white wine
  • 8 fl oz fish stock
  • 1 pinch saffron threads (optional)
  • 4 fish fillets (eg gurnard, mackerel)
  • 4 oz cherry tomatoes, halved
  • salt and pepper

Method

In a heavy based pan large enough to hold the fish fillets, gently cook the onion until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Stir in the cumin, ginger, cinnamon, preserved lemon and green olives, and cook for a further two minutes. Add the harrisa paste and cook for another minute. Add the wine, fish stock and saffron (if using) and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the fish fillets and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the tomatoes. Now cover the pan, lower the heat and cook gently for about 7 minutes.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve on a bed of cous cous soaked in fish stock. (Soaking cous cous is one of the very few acceptable uses of a stock cube/powder, if absolutely necessary.)


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Fennel Risotto

Untried as yet – from Waitrose Food Illustrated . It may be difficult – I’ve never seen baby fennel!

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 45 mins
cooking time: 15 mins

Ingredients

  • 8 baby fennel bulbs, tops and fronds chopped and reserved
  • 10g tarragon, chopped
  • 3 star anise
  • 25g butter
  • 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
  • 175g Arborio rice
  • 200 ml white wine
  • 2 tbs crème fraîche
  • 40g Parmesan cheese, grated

Method

First, amke the stock for teh risotto. Simmer the baby fennel in 500ml salted water for 5-6 minutes. Remove the fennel bulbs with a slotted spoon and refresh them in cold water, then set aside. Add the fennel tops, star anise and half the tarragon to the cooking water and bring to the boil. Remove the star anise, whizz the stock in a blender, then strain into a saucepan. Keep the stock hot over gentle heat to make the risotto.

Melt the butter in a clean pan and sweat the shallots for 2 – 3 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook for a further 1- 2 minutes until transparent. Add the white wine and let it evaporate almost completely. Now start adding the hot fennel stock, ladel by ladel, stirring frequently and allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next. It should take about 15 minutes to use all the stock. Stir in the crème fraîche and Parmesan, tehn season the risotto and let it rest for 3 minutes. Stir in the remaining half of the tarragon.

(Roast the blanched baby fennel and serve along with the risotto to accompany some roast spring lamb.)


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Faisan au Vin Rouge

This is a minor adaptation of a recipe from Supercook and was my favourite “saucey” recipe for pheasant. First class pheasant are very good plain roasted but older or less well shot birds benefit from different preparation and presentation. Here they are braised in red wine which then goes to make a wonderfully flavoured sauce, though somewhat strangely coloured when the cream is added. The sauce is so good, I like to serve mashed potato to soak it up.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 pheasants
  • 2 medium onions, finely chopped
  • 2 oz unsalted butter
  • 1 tbs vegetable oil
  • 1 bottle full red wine (eg Fitou)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 4 oz mushrooms, thinly sliced
  • 4 slices streaky bacon
  • 5 fl oz double cream
  • 2 ozs beurre manié
  • salt and pepper

Method

Clean and dry the pheasants, season them inside with salt and pepper and place half of the chopped onions in their cavities. Brown the birds evenly in a large frying pan over moderately high heat (6 – 8 minutes) with the butter and oil mixed. Transfer them to a flameproof casserole (an oval one is ideal).

Fry the remaining onion, stirring occasionally, until it is lightly browned. Add the wine, increase the heat to high and, stirring constantly, bring to the boil. Add some salt and pepper (sparingly at this stage), the bay leaf and the mushrooms. Cook this over moderate heat for 5 minutes.

Cover the breasts of the pheasants with the bacon slices and add the wine mixture. Bring the casserole to simmering point and then reduce the heat to low, cover it and braise the pheasants for 45 minutes or so until they are tender. Remove and discard the bacon. Transfer the pheasants to a serving dish and keep them warm while finishing the sauce.

Strain the braising liquid back into the frying pan, increase the heat to high and reduce the liquid by half. (While this is happening is a good time to cut the pheasants into serving pieces.) Reduce the heat to moderate and add the beurre manié a piece at a time, stirring constantly, until the sauce reaches the desired consistency. Add the double cream (be prepared for a slightly odd colour at this point!) and cook for a further 2 – 3 minutes. Do not let the sauce boil. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Pour some sauce over the pheasant pieces and serve the rest in a sauce boat.


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Faisan à la Normande

Following a very successful New Year trip to Normandy and being slap bang in the middle of game season, this seemed like a particularly appropriate dinner party dish.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time: 75 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 tbs olive oil
  • 100g butter
  • 2 pheasants, prepared and trussed
  • 1 large shallot or small onion, finely chopped
  • 3 eating apples
  • 50ml calvados
  • 100ml dry cider
  • 150ml crème fraîche
  • salt & pepper

Method

In a pan large enough to hold both pheasants (an oval casserole usually works well), melt 25g of the butter in the oil and brown the birds as evenly as possible all over. Remove the birds and set them aside. If the pan contains burnt residue, wipe it out.

Core and peel two of the apples and cut each into eighths. Melt 50g butter in the casserole and sweat the shallot and apple wedges, without colouring them, for about five minutes. Return the pheasants to the pan breast side up. Warm the calvados slightly in a small pan and set it alight before carefully pouring it, flaming, over the pheasants and apple mixture. Shake the pan until the flames die down. Pour in the cider and bring it to simmering point. Cover the casserole, lower the heat and cook it gently for 45 minutes in all. After 15 minutes, turn the pheasants onto one breast and continue cooking and, after a further 15 minutes, turn them onto the other breast for the final 15 minutes.

While the pheasants are cooking, core and peel the remaining apple and cut 4 thick circles (across the core). Fry the apple circles in the remaining 25g butter. Sprinkle them with a little sugar to glaze them. Set aside to garnish.

After 45 minutes, remove the pheasants and keep them warm while you finish the sauce. Increase the heat and boil the cooking juices to reduce them a little and concentrate the flavours. While the sauce is reducing, joint the pheasants (breasts, thighs and drumsticks) and put the pieces on a warmed serving plate. Blitz the contents of the pan to puree the apples and shallot and make a smooth sauce. Stir in the cream and heat gently before adjusting the seasoning to taste.

Pour a little of the sauce around the pheasant pieces and top each breast with one of the glazed apple circles. Serve the remaining sauce separately.


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Crème Cressonière

I’d been wanting to make this French classic for some time. On investigating the recipes, though, the true classic seemed very rich, containing not only cream but also being thickened with potato and egg yolks. That would be perhaps a little too heavy-duty for modern styles so here is what I think is a lighter but very successful alternative.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 30g butter
  • 1 medium leek, finely chopped
  • 300g watercress
  • 800ml light chicken stock
  • 150ml single cream
  • salt & pepper

Method

Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat then sweat the leek and watercress together for about five minutes. Keep stirring occasionally so that all the watercress wilts and collapses. Pour in the chicken stock and increase the heat to bring it to simmering point. Cook everything together gently for about 25 minutes.

Blitz the soup in a liquidizer. Now return it to the pan over low heat and stir in the cream. Adjust the seasoning to taste being careful of the pepper ‘cos watercress is quite peppery anyway.

(You can make this ahead of time and reheat it without fear of boiling, unlike the original which would curdle thanks to the egg yolks.)

 


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