Pâte Sucrée

This is a transcription of a recipe from The French Cookery School published years ago in parts in The Observer Magazine from Anne Willan of La Varenne, in Paris.

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz flour
  • large pinch salt
  • 3½ oz caster sugar
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 1 tsp vanilla essence
  • 4 oz butter

Method

Sift the flour onto a marble slab or board and make a well in the centre. Put the salt, sugar, egg yolks and vanilla in th ewelland mix them with your fingers until the sugar dissolves. Pound the butter to soften it slightly, add it to the well and quickly work it with the other ingredients, using your fingertips to pull the dough into large crumbs.

To mix the dough thoroughly, work it in a few batches by pushing it on the working surface away from you with the heel of the hand and gathering it up with a dough scraper until smooth and pliable. Press the dough into a ball, roll lightly in flour to smooth it and wrap in non-stick parchment, foil, plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Chill for at least 30 mins or until firm. The dough can be stored, tightly warpped, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen.


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Pâte Brisée

This is a transcription of a recipe from The French Cookery School published years ago in parts in The Observer Magazine from Anne Willan of La Varenne, in Paris.

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz flour
  • 4 oz butter
  • 2 egg yolks
  • level tsp salt
  • 3½ – 4 tbs cold water

Method

Sift the flour onto a marble slab or board and make a well in the centre. Pound the butter to soften it slightly. Place the butter, egg yolks, salt and a smaller amount of water in the well and work together with the fingertips until partly mixed. Gradually work in the flour, using the fingertips to pull the dough into large crumbs. If the crumbs are dry, sprinkle over a tablespoon more water. Press the dough firmly together; it should be soft but not sticky.

To mix the dough thoroughly, work it in a few batches by pushing it on the working surface away from you with the heel of the hand and gathering it up with a dough scraper until smooth and pliable. Press the dough into a ball, roll lightly in flour to smooth it and wrap in non-stick parchment, foil, plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Chill for at least 30 mins or until firm. The dough can be stored, tightly warpped, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen.


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Partridge with Orange and Vermouth Sauce

This recipe is from Supercook . Partridge are great roasted with sage and pancetta. Here, to give some variety, they are sautéed and served with this splendid orange and vermouth sauce.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 partridge, halved
  • 2 oz unsalted butter
  • 4 shallots, finely chopped (alternatively 1 medium onion)
  • 6 fl oz chicken stock
  • 4 fl oz dry vermouth
  • 4 fl oz fresh orange juice
  • 5 fl oz double cream
  • 1 tbs chopped chives
  • 1 tbs beurre manié
  • salt and pepper

Method

Clean and dry the partridge halves and sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan (with a lid available). Add the partridge halves and cook them for 6 to 8 minutes until they are lightly browned. Now cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook them for a further 10 to 12 minutes (or until tender) on each side. Transfer the partridges to a serving dish, cover and keep warm while you make the sauce. Retain the juices from the sauté pan but discard all but a tablespoon of fat.

In the retained fat, cook the chopped shallots until soft and translucent (not brown). Pour in the chicken stock and vermouth, raise the heat to high and reduce the liquid by about one third. Reduce the heat to moderate and add the orange juice, double cream and chives. While heating the sauce for a further 2 to 3 minutes, stir constantly and incorporate beurre manié until the sauce is thick and smooth. Do not let it boil.


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Paella

Since paella recipes vary depending upon what might be available, this should be treated as a guideline. Apparently some people get upset with chorizo in a paella but if you don’t call it Paella Valenciana, you might get away with it. I like it and it seems very Spanish though to be authentic, you should probably omit it.

This recipe, with a combination of meat and seafood, would be a paella mixta and it is how I like to make it for a dinner party. As a daily dinner, I make it simply with chicken, chorizo and prawns. Naturally, you can change the green vegetable – fine beans, halved, for example.

When adjusting the quantities for a different number, keep the total liquid quantity twice that of the rice.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 60 mins

Ingredients

  • 4-6 langoustines (1 each – or large crevettes)
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 small chicken (~2 lbs)
  • 1 chorizo sausage, chunked
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 red pepper, seeded & chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 3 large tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1 tsp salt
  • ½ tsp pepper
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 12 oz paella (bomba) rice
  • 30 fl oz water
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • pinch saffron threads soaked in another 6 fl oz warm water
  • 8 oz peas, shelled
  • 6 oz large prawns
  • 1 net mussels
  • 1 tbs chopped fresh parsley

Method

Scrub, de-beard and steam the mussels until only just opened. Remove most of the mussels from their shells but keep a few whole for decoration, if you like. Cut the chicken up into large-bite-size chunks. Bone the leg meat but joint the wings and leave the wing bones in.

In a large, deep frying pan (a paella pan if you happen to have one), heat the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the chicken and chorizo chunks and fry them for about 10 minutes until the chicken is brown. Remove the chicken and chorizo from the pan. The chorizo should have flavoured and coloured the olive oil beautifully.

Add the onion and red pepper to the pan and fry for 5-10 mins until the onion is soft and translucent but not brown. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. Add salt, pepper and paprika stir in, then add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes or so until the tomatoes turn to pulp and the mixture thickens a little.

Add the rice to the pan and, stirring frequently, cook it for 3 mins until the grains become a little transparent. Add the water, lemon juice and the saffron mixture and bring to the boil. Return the chicken and chorizo to the pan and add the shelled peas. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 20 mins or so, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is almost all absorbed. Stir in the prawns and shelled mussels and cook for another few mins until just done – about 5 minutes. If you want the bottom of the rice toasted, as the Spanish do, do this last bit over higher heat.

Meanwhile, either cook (if raw) or reheat (if precooked) the langoustines/crevettes. Either way, 1 minute in boiling water should suffice.

Remove the pan from the heat and decorate with the langoustines and mussels in their shells. Sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve immediately with copious quantities of dry white Spanish wine.


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Paad Thai

Thai stir-fried noodles. Since most commentators say that there are as many variations as there are cooks in Thailand, I will deliberately avoid the use of the word “classic”.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 25 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 225 g dried rice noodles
  • 450 g raw prawns, shelled & de-veined
  • 2 tbs groundnut oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 4 shallots, finely sliced
  • 2 fresh Thai chillies, deseeded & chopped
  • 175 g fresh beansprouts
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 tbs light soy sauce
  • 1 tbs lime juice
  • 2 tbs Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 lime, cut into wedges
  • 3 tbs fresh coriander, chopped
  • 4 spring onions, sliced diagonally
  • 3 tbs roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
  • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes

Method

Soak the rice noodles in warm water for 20 mins, then drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat and, when the oil smokes a little, stir-fry the prawns for 2 mins. Remove the prawns with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Back to the wok, add the garlic, shallots and chillies, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Now add the noodles and stir-fry for another minute. Now add the beansprouts, eggs, soy sauce, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and some ground black pepper and continue to stir-fry for 3 mins. Finally, return the prawns to the wok and stir-fry for another 2 mins.

Turn the mixture onto a platter and garnish with the lime wedges, coriander, spring onions, peanuts and chilli flakes, and serve at once.


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Oatcakes

There’s a long way to go to find a better accompaniment to cheese, especially the blue variety, than the humble Scottish Oatcake. Here’s a recipe based on something I found on the Hamlyns web site.

Planning

serves: 15 oatcakes
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 25 mins

Ingredients

  • 8 oz oatmeal (I like fine but …)
  • 4 oz plain flour
  • 2 oz margarine
  • 5 tbs warm water
  • 1 tsp caster sugar
  • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • ½ tsp salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 175°C. Cover a baking tray with baking parchment (or, preferably, one of those absolutely wonderful re-useable teflon baking sheets).

Mix all the dry ingredients together in a bowl. Melt the margarine in the water and mix this into the dry ingredients to form a fairly stiff dough. (As usual, liquid is not a precise measurement and you may need to adjust it, as I did.) Knead it a little and roll it out to a thickness of about 3mm. Cut the dough into disks about 2½ inches across and place these, slightly separated, on the baking sheet. Bake them for 20 – 25 mins.

Cool them on a wire rack before devouring with the best blue stilton you can find!


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Nettle Soup

It may sound bizarre but, once a year when the stinging nettles are young and fresh (usually early April), they make a great soup. The colour can be a stunning green.

Take care and, using some good rubber gloves or the like, harvest the youngest and tenderest top leaves of the new nettles. The quantity is approximately one standard washing-up bowl full. I strip the leaves from the stems, again using those trusty rubber gloves and, clearly, they need a darn good washing before drying in a salad spinner.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 2 hrs
cooking time: 45 mins

Ingredients

  • 30g butter
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 4 medium new potatoes, quartered
  • 400g nettles, prepared as above
  • 400ml chicken stock
  • 250ml semi-skimmed milk
  • salt & pepper

Method

In a pan large enough to take all the nettles, first melt the butter. Sweat the onion and potatoes together until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the nettles and sweat these, stirring constantly until they wilt. Then put in the chicken stock and milk and bring to simmering point. Add a little salt (I think cooking it with salt helps develop the flavour) but take care not to over do it at this stage. Simmer all together gently (take care it doesn’t boil over) for about 35 minutes until the potatoes are cooked through.

Blitz the soup in a liquidizer to a very smooth consistency. (You’ll probably have to do this in two batches depending upon the capacity of your liquidizer.) Return it to the pan and reheat it before adjusting the seasoning to taste with salt & pepper.


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Moussaka

This is a rewrite of my original Moussaka recipe, which originally came from the Marshall Cavendish Handbook of Good Cooking (now sadly lost to me). I’ve made a few changes.

Firstly, I’ve scaled it up (and gone to metric measurements) to fit my old ceramic Jamie Oliver “Big Boy” Roaster (the smaller of the two). Being ceramic, it’s useless as a roaster ‘cos you can’t make gravy in it on the hob. It is, however, a decent deep dish for recipes such as this. This would now feed 6 generously.

Secondly, I’ve learned a much better way of pre-cooking aubergines from Ottolenghi. This makes for a much less oily finished dish.

Now to my original intro, in which I still believe. The first and most important rule of Moussaka is to ignore recipes that use potato instead of aubergine. The second rule of Moussaka is to serve lots of retsina (increasingly difficult to find – try Sainsbury’s). I think the atmosphere is enhanced if you play Greek music while you eat it but I understand your disagreeing. With or without the music, please don’t break the plates afterwards.

Planning

serves: 6-8
preparation time: 45 mins
cooking time: 1½ hrs

Ingredients

  • 1kg minced lamb
  • 3 LARGE aubergines
  • 250g onions, roughly chopped
  • 350g tomatoes, roughly chopped
  • olive oil
  • 1 tbs ground allspice
  • 3 tbs chopped fresh parsley
  • 600ml béchamel sauce (coating consistency)
  • yolks of 2 eggs
  • ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
  • 90g Parmesan cheese, grated

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C fan. Wipe, top and tail the aubergines, then cut them into 1cm slices. Sprinkle these with a little salt before brushing each slice with a little olive oil on both sides and placing them on lined baking trays (you’ll need two). bake the aubergines in the oven for 30 minutes (no need to turn) when they should turn a light golden brown.

Heat 2 tbs olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Fry the onions gently until soft and lightly coloured – about 10 minutes. Add the lamb and fry, stirring frequently until lightly browned. Add the chopped tomatoes, allspice, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well, cover and cook gently for about 20 mins. The tomatoes should break down.

Heat the oven to 180°C/gas 4. Arrange a layer of aubergine slices on the bottom of a large, deep, ovenproof dish. You should use about half the aubergines. Cover the base aubergines with your meat sauce, then add a further layer of aubergine slices on the top.

Warm the béchamel sauce very gently over low heat, then stir in the egg yolks and nutmeg together with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce evenly over the top layer of aubergines and sprinkle the top with the grated Parmesan cheese. Bake in the centre of the oven for 45 mins until the top is lightly golden and bubbling.

Serve this with a green salad and lashings of cold retsina. You could, of course, try Greek salad but I think that’s a bit overkill.


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Moroccan Spiced Lamb Shanks

One of Mr. Slater’s, thus far unadulterated by myself. A warm, cozy, comforting meal for dismal winter evenings.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 3 hrs

Ingredients

  • 2 lamb shanks
  • 1 tbs flour
  • salt & pepper
  • olive oil
  • 1 large aubergine, halved lengthwise & thickly sliced
  • 3 medium onions, sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 tbs tomato purée
  • 2 tsp harissa paste
  • 1 stick cinnamon
  • 1 tin (400g) plum tomatoes, chopped

Method

Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas 3.

Season the flour with a few grindings of pepper and salt in a large polythene bag. Put in the lamb shanks, close the bag and agitate well to dust them all over with the seasoned flour. In a casserole that will just take the lamb comfortably, brown the shanks in a little olive oil over moderate heat. Remove the lamb to a plate.

In the same pan, brown the aubergine adding a little more oil as it gets absorbed. Remove the aubergine and reserve it along with the lamb.

Now put the onions and garlic into the pan and cook these together for about 5 minutes to get them soft and pale golden. Add a little more oil if necessary. Toss in the cinnamon stick, harissa paste and tomato purée, stir and cook for a minute, then add the chopped plum tomatoes (and all the can juices). Stir in about ½ tsp salt and return the lamb and aubergine to the pan. Top up with enough water almost to cover the lamb shanks. Agitate again to mix and bring the pan to simmering point. Cover with a tight fitting lid and braise in the oven for 2 – 2½ hours until the lamb is very tender and almost falling from the bones.

Lift the meat from the pan and simmer the juices on the hob to concentrate the flavour. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking with salt, pepper and harissa if necessary.


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Monkfish and Spring Vegetables

From good ol’ Keith Floyd’s Floyd on France . This is a great one-pot fish dish that usually suits even those who may be a little nervous of eating fish. The earthy flavours from the vegetables used in the dish are terrific. Chard is a tad difficult to find but asparagus spears make a very good alternative since they also have an earthy flavour.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 kg monkfish tail, skinned & cut in large pieces
  • 1 large onion, peeled and chopped
  • 750g celeriac, peeled and diced
  • 12 new potatoes, peeled and grated
  • 150g small turnips, peeled and diced
  • 150g carrots, peeled and diced
  • 200g peas
  • 150g swiss chard (white only), chopped
  • 100g pancetta cubes
  • 150g butter
  • salt and pepper
  • 25ml double cream
  • 300ml fish stock

Method

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.

In a large pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Gently fry the monkfish, vegetables and pancetta until the onion is transparent. Season with salt and pepper and arrange them evenly in an ovenproof dish. Moisten the fish and vegetables with some of the stock. (Don’t make it too wet.)

Bake the dish in the oven for about 20 minutes. It should be bubbling nicely and just beginning to brown. While the fish is baking, reduce the fish stock by half, whisk in the double cream and keep warm.

Once the fish is cooked, divide it between your plates and pour over the stock and cream mixture to serve.


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