Onion Gravy

I found a source of Faggots – British “meatballs” made of minced pork and pig liver – of which I’m very fond. Onion gravy seems to be the traditional accompaniment so off I went.

A thought occurred to me as I was making it. Pour this over faggots in England and it’s Onion Gravy. Top it with a crôuton and grated cheese in France and it’s French Onion Soup. Funny old world.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 15mins

Ingredients

  • 2 medium-large onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tbs sunflower oil
  • 2 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 tbs red wine vinegar
  • 1½ tbs plain flour
  • 500ml beef stock
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Fry the onions in the oil until starting to turn golden. Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until caramelised. Tip in the vinegar and sizzle off the astringency. Stir in the flour to blend it well. Now pour in the stock and stir well. Continue stirring and cooking gently until it thickens to your liking (you can adjust with a flour/oil mixture or water as necessary).

I used this poured over faggots and baked in the oven at 160°C for an hour.


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Posted in Sauces Tagged with:

Pappardelle with Chicken Livers

I love offal and I’m a huge fan of Chicken Livers, which are very versatile. They make a wonderful warm salad (salade tiède) and the Spanish love ’em as a tapa.

I need to try this approach from Mark Hix, though, ‘cos it sort of echoes a chicken liver and pasta dish we loved in Spain. I tried Mr. Hix’s Sea Bass with Ras el Hanout which was an unmitigated disaster, the Ras el Hanout doing the Sea Bass absolutely no favours whatsoever, in my opinion. This looks a lot more conventional and safe, though.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 25 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 banana shallots
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 400g chicken livers
  • 100ml Marsala
  • 100ml chicken stock
  • 400g pappardelle
  • 60g butter
  • 2 tbsp parsley, chopped
  • Parmesan, freshly grated, to serve
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Clean and chop the chicken livers into rough 1 inch/2.5cm pieces

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan and gently cook the shallot and garlic without colouring. Turn up the heat. Season the livers and add them to the pan, frying them over a high heat and stirring every so often until they begin to colour (a couple of minutes).

Tip the livers on to a chopping board and chop them finely with a large knife then return them to the pan along with the Marsala and stock. Cook on a high heat until the liquid has reduced by about half and the sauce has thickened a little. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Meanwhile, cook the pappardelle in boiling salted water according to the packet instructions, until al dente, then drain.

Stir two-thirds of the sauce through the pasta, along with the butter and parsley. Transfer to warmed plates, then spoon over the rest of the sauce. Serve with some grated Parmesan.


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Posted in Meat Tagged with:

Venison Wellington

This is a James Martin recipe that we like to make for New Year, assuming Aldi gets its excellent Venison fillets. This uses genuine mushroom duxelles, instead of a mushroom paté, to coat the fillet so it would be worth doing as a more traditional Beef Wellington, though the timings would need a little adjustment.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 50 mins
cooking time: 90 mins

Ingredients

  • 700g loin of venison, trimmed
  • olive oil
  • 1½ tbs English mustard
  • 50g buter
  • 1 large banana shallot, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 400g chestnut mushrooms, very finely blitzed
  • 1 tbs thyme leaves, chopped
  • 1 tbs parsley, chopped
  • 2 tbs brandy
  • 12 slices prosciutto
  • plain flour (for dusting)
  • 375g butter puff pastry
  • 2 egg yolks, beaten
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Firstly, dry the venison with kitchen paper, then season well. Heat the oil in a frying pan and sear the meat all over for about 8 mins. Brush with mustard, leave to cool, then chill for 20 mins. Reserve any juices for the gravy.

Now the duxelles. Melt the butter and soften the shallot and garlic. Add the mushrooms, herbs and seasoning, and cook for 10 mins until you have a paste-like mixture. Add the brandy and cook until it’s evaporated. Leave to cool.

Assemble the Wellington, part 1. Overlap 2-3 sheets of cling film on a clean surface and lay the prosciutto in 2 rows, slightly overlapping each slice. Spread the cooled mushroom paste all over the prosciutto, creating a thin, even layer. Place the fillet in the centre of the mushroom mixture. Using the edge of the cling film, carefully draw the layer of prosciutto and mushroom around the meat. Roll into a sausage shape, twisting the ends of the cling film as you do, to form a tight log. Chill for 30 mins to firm up.

Assemble the Wellington, part 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry to a rectangle a little larger than a magazine, and trim the edges to neaten. Carefully unwrap the prosciutto parcel and lay in the middle of the pastry. Fold over the bottom half of the pastry. Lightly brush the rest of the sheet with beaten egg. Roll the whole thing around the meat to encase. Neatly fold under the shorter edges to create a parcel. Transfer to a baking sheet and, using your hands, smooth the pastry around the meat, pressing it firmly to avoid any air being trapped. Brush the pastry all over with beaten egg yolk. Chill for at least 30 mins or up to 24 hrs.

When ready to cook, heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Using the back of a knife, mark the pastry, being careful not to cut all the way through. Lightly oil a non-stick baking tray and heat until hot. Put the wellington on the tray and bake for 30 mins (35 mins for well done). Remove from oven, brush with extra egg and rest for 20 mins.

To make venison gravy, melt a large knob of butter in a medium pan, add 1 finely chopped shallot, 1 crushed garlic clove and 1 thyme sprig, and cook until soft. Add 1 tbsp flour, brown for about 1 min, then pour in 250ml Port and reduce by two-thirds. Add 400ml beef stock and any reserved juices from the venison, then reduce again by two-thirds until syrupy. Season, add 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly, if you like (I don’t), and strain before serving.


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Posted in Game, Meat Tagged with:

Champagne Cocktail

In my view, the greatest movie ever is Casablanca. I’ve watched it so many times I can pretty much recite the script. There was, however, one memorable component that I needed a recipe for, the Champagne Cocktail as ordered by Victor Laszlo, played by Paul Heinreid.

At long last I intend to try it on New Year’s Eve, 2023. The true recipe (as here) includes a sugar cube which, in deference to a spot of type 2 diabetes, I will be omitting. Mine has a Spanish twist, using Spanish brandy and Spanish Cava, as opposed to the much more expensive French ingredients.

Planning

serves: 1
preparation time: 2 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 1 sugar cube
  • ¼ tsp Angostura bitters
  • 10 ml Cognac/brandy
  • 75 ml COLD Champage/Cava/Prosecco
  • strip of orange peel

Method

Put the sugar cube on a small dish and drizzle with the bitters, turning a few times to coat all sides. Drop the cube into the bottom of a Champagne flute. To avoid the sugar, just shake a few drops of the bitters directly into a Campagne flute. Add the brandy then slowly pour in the fizz.

Pare a strip of orange peel, give it a twist and add it to the glass.


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Posted in Drinks Tagged with:

Sweet Potato Chips

I have to say that I am generally not a big fan of Ottolenghi. This may be because he seems stuck in one or two flavour ruts which don’t appeal. One rut is za’atar, which just doesn’t do it for me. The other is sumac, which has a citrus note that I simply don’t care for. The latter features in his Sweet Potato Chips recipe, so I omitted it. The remaining ingredients work very well, particularly the addition of polenta.

I like to serve these, instead of frîtes, with Moules Marinière, along with mayonnaise for dipping.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 large sweet potatoes (~1.2kg)
  • 30g fine polenta
  • 1 tbs sweet smoked paprika (pimenton)
  • ½ tsp hot smoked paprika (or cayenne)
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • Maldon sea salt
  • olive oil

Method

Heat the oven to 220°C fan.

In bowl mix together the polenta, sweet and hot smoked paprikas, and 1 teaspoon Maldon salt.

Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into roughly 1cm chips. In a large bowl, toss together the chips with a few darn good glugs of olive oil. Crush in the garlic and mix well. Now throw in the polenta/spice mix and stir to distribute as evenly as you can. This can sit for a while.

When ready to cook, line a roasting tin with something non stick like a “teflon” sheet or baking parchment. Spread the chips out in the lined roasting tin and pop them in the oven. After 15 minutes, remove the chips from the oven and turn them over. Since all ovens vary, check progress with the heat of yours and adjust if necessary. Return the chips for a further 10 or 15 minutes.


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Posted in Veggies Tagged with:

Savoy Cabbage with Caraway

I think my long-standing opinion of caraway seeds may have been (dis)coloured by Kümmel, a caraway flavoured liqueur, or possible Seed Cake from a grandmother or two. Given that I like most things alcoholic, you can definitely keep the Kümmel.

However, recently I dragged up a distant memory of using caraway seeds with cabbage and, Savoy Cabbage being my favourite cabbage, whilst being simplicity itself, this recipe actually worked quite nicely. I served it alongside good ol’ Beef Goulash since reducing my carbohydrate intake was making me avoid the noodles that I’d kill for.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • ½ large Savoy Cabbage, trimmed & shredded
  • olive oil
  • 1 banana shallot, halved & sliced
  • 2 tsp caraway seeds

Method

Boil the cabbage in salted water for 3 mins until tender, then drain.

Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over moderate heat and add the shallot. Cook for 2-3 mins until starting to soften. Mix in the caraway seeds and cook for a further 2 mins until fragrant. Stir in the cabbage and heat through.


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Posted in Veggies Tagged with:

Lentil Soup

Red split lentils have a wonderful, natural peppery flavour which, IMO, should be the dominant flavour of Lentil Soup. Hence, this is little in the way of recipe and more of a note about quantities.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: n/a
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 ltr light, homemade chicken stock
  • 150g red split lentils
  • Salt & pepper

Method

The culinarily fastidious may wish to rinse the lentils first but note that these do not need soaaking, unlike many dried pulses.

Tip the (rinsed) lentils into the chicken stock in a suitably sized saucepan and bring gently to the simmer, stirring occasionally to stop the lentils sticking to the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Red split lentils disintegrate, retaining just a little texture, so blitzing isn’t really necessary but if you want a perfectly smooth finished soup then use a stick blender. Adjust the seasonong. I use only salt because of teh natural pepperiness of the lentils.


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Posted in Soups Tagged with:

Devilled Kidneys

OK, I admit it, I’m an offal fan. There is something alluring about the idea of this traditional old English breakfast dish so here’s one to try. Recipes vary greatly; this version is the Guardian’s approach. Naturally, the spice can be adjust to suit your personal palate. (I’m tinkering with the idea of using a hot, and I do mean hot, chilli sauce instead of cayenne.)

I don’t really do cooked breakfasts, normally, but this is easy enough and tasty enough to make a decent light lunch or a starter for your more adventurous guests.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 lambs’ kidneys
  • 2 tbsp flour, seasoned
  • 25g butter, softened
  • ½ tsp cayenne pepper
  • ½ tsp mustard powder
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tsp anchovy essence, or 2 anchovies, mashed
  • 2 thick slices bread
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Remove the suet from around the kidneys if necessary, along with the thin membrane that might still encase them. Slice in half laterally, so they retain their kidney shape, and use a pair of scissors to snip away the membranes that attach the white fatty core to the meat. Dust in the seasoned flour.

Mash the butter with the other ingredients, and adjust to taste.

Heat a small frying pan, then add the butter. Turn down the heat to medium. Shake the excess flour off the kidneys, then cook them for two and a half minutes on each side. Meanwhile, toast the bread.

Serve the kideys and juices atop the toast as a traditional breakfast or lunch.


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Posted in Starters Tagged with:

Kefta Mkaouara

I’m a big meatball fan and a big tagine fan, so how could a Moroccan meatball tagine fail to please?

The “ou” in Mkaouara is a sort of “w” sound and I’ve seen this written as Mkawara. Similarly, I’ve seen a “q” instead of a “k” resulting in Mqawara. There’re almost as many spellings as there are variations in the recipes. The spices vary considerably, some using regular paprika or smoked paprika (pimenton – maybe to fake out the charcoal on which the tagines might traditionally be cooked). Some spice up the tomato sauce while others leave it plain. Some include a vegetable in the sauce. I’ve even seen the eggs finally poached on top declared as optional.

I like spice in my sauce and the one I tried in the Little Marrakech restaurant in St. Albans had peas in the sauce so I use them, too. Besides, it’s a veggie unit. Clearly you can modify to your heart’s content but here’s my starting position.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time:

Ingredients

  • 400g lamb mince
  • 1 onion, finely chopped or grated
  • 2 cloves garlic, grated
  • 3 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
  • 3 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ½ tsp hot paprika/cayenne
  • ¼ tsp black pepper
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1½ tsp paprika
  • ¼ tsp hot paprika
  • 1½ tsp cumin
  • 400g tin chopped tomatoes
  • 200g frozen peas
  • 1 tsp honey
  • 2 tbs fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 2 tbs fresh coriander, finely chopped
  • 4 eggs
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Make the meatballs. Combine all the ingredients from lamb mince down to and including the egg yolk in a mixing bowl. Knead the mixture together for a minute or two with your hands until the seasoning is evenly distributed. Take small portions of the mixture and shape into small meatballs; aim for something roughly the size of a cherry. [Moroccan meatballs are a modest bite-size, presumably to make them easy to eat by picking up with flatbread.] Cover and set aside.

It is said that small meatballs don’t need browning first but I like to. In a tagine, skillet or shallow casserole (one with a lid), lightly brown the meatballs on all sides in olive oil. Remove them from the pan and set aside. In the same pan, sauté the chopped onion for a few minutes – there should be enough oil and lamb fat remaining – until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and sauté gently for another minute or two. Stir in the spices (two paprikas and cumin) then add the tinned chopped tomatoes. Add the honey and chopped herbs, stirring to mix well. Lastly, return the meatballs to the pan, stirring to coat them in sauce. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Stir in the peas and adjust the seasoning to taste. Break the eggs on top of the stew, turn the heat down to low then cover the pan and simmer gently until the eggs are cooked to your liking.

Go with tradtion and serve with some flatbreads or you could try some couscous.


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Posted in Meat Tagged with:

Pintade aux Brugues

A Guineafowl recipe developed in and therefore named after a campsite in France: Les Brugues at Fanjeaux. This is a simple concoction featuring the flavour of shallots in a sauce based on dry rosé wine with the addition of a little wholegrain mustard. The flavour of the shallots is important so do not be tempted to add garlic. Scaling up to serve 4 would be a simple matter.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 20 mins

Ingredients

  • olive oil
  • 2 large banana shallots, peeled
  • 2 guineafowl breasts, skinned
  • 200ml dry rosé wine
  • 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Halve the shallots lengthwise then cut into slices about 3mm thick. Sauté these in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil until they just begin to turn golden, then remove them and set aside.

Brown the guineafowl breasts in the onion oil on both sides then lower the heat, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes. Set the breasts aside, leaving the accumulated liquid in the pan.

Return the shallots to the pan with the wine and mustard, stirring to mix. Raise the heat a little and simmer to reduce and concentrate the flavours. You are looking for a light emulsion to form with the oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Return the breasts, basting them with the liquid, then cover and simmer to reheat.


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Posted in Poultry Tagged with: