Seafood Stock

A classic seafood stock, perhaps for seafood rice dishes, made ideally from langoustines or, failing that given the lack of availability in the UK (most are exported to Spain or France), large prawns can be substituted. This is required for Arroz Roja with Langoustines.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 1 mins
cooking time: 1 hr

Ingredients

  • 8 langoustines or large prawns
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1 carrot, chopped
  • 1 celery stick, chopped
  • 60ml white wine
  • 1.5 litres fish stock or water
  • fresh tarragon sprig
  • 150g tomatoes roughly chopped
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Start by peeling the langoustines/prawns and set the flesh aside for your main purpose. Roughly chop the heads and shells for the stock.

Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Gently fry the onion, carrot and celery for a few minutes until softened. Add the chopped langoustine/prawn heads and shells and fry for a couple of minutes. Add the white wine, bring to the boil and cook for a minute, then add the fish stock or water, tarragon and tomatoes.

Cook for 40 minutes, then push everything through a fine sieve over a large pan, pressing with a wooden spoon to extract as much flavour as you can.


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Posted in Starters

Arroz Roja with Langoustines

Langoustines can be difficult to source in the UK since most of our excellent examples from Scotland are exported to Spain or France, tragically. Large Prawns make a decent substitute. Use the shells and heads to make the seafood stock.

This is essentially a seafood paella. I’m clearly collecting coloured paella recipes. I got hooked on Arroz Negro (black rice) some years ago nad now here is Arroz Roja (red rice). In a departure from normal practice, here the seafod is cooked separately, though. Mr. Stein’s original uses, in his inimitable fashion, a pinch of chilli flakes but I’ve gone for some hot-smoked paprika instead, to supplement the sweet paprika.

I usually write my paella recipes for two because that’s the number most suited to my domestic paella pan, though scaling up is a simple affair.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 25 mins

Ingredients

  • 8 langoustines or large prawns, flesh of
  • 4 tbs olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • ½ tsp sweet paprika
  • ½ tsp hot smoked paprika
  • 1 tbs tomato purée
  • 200g tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 roasted red pepper (bottled or freshly roasted), chopped into 1cm pieces
  • 200g paella rice
  • 600 ml seafood stock
  • 200g haddock fillet, skin on, cut into 4 pieces
  • 3 tbs allioli (to serve)
  • 2 tbs fresh parsley, chopped (to serve)
  • 2 fresh lemon wedges (to serve)
  • Salt & pepper

Method

In a paella, large skillet or shallow flameproof casserole dish (28-30cm/11-12in), heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry gently for about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and fry for a minute without browning. Stir in both paprikas, tomato purée, chopped tomatoes, chopped red pepper, shellfish stock and rice, then season with salt and pepper. Stir once, then bring up to the boil and simmer vigorously for about 6 minutes. Turn the heat down and cook for a further 12 minutes, until the stock is absorbed and the rice is pitted with small holes. [Standard paella practice.]

A few minutes before the rice is due to finish cooking, heat the remaining olive oil in a separate pan over a medium-high heat. Add the haddock, skin-side down, and cook until the flesh is opaque. Add the langoustine/prawn meat and cook for about 30 seconds or so until pink, turning them once.

Divide the rice between two plates and top each with two pieces of haddock and four langoustines/prawns. Garnish with allioli, chopped parsley and a wedge of lemon, if you like.


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Posted in Fish, Seafood Tagged with:

Coleslaw

Here’s my basic Coleslaw using equal quantities of white and red cabbage. I like to use a mandolin to finely shred teh cabbages but a good sharp knife in teh right hands would suffice. This can be given a little twist with the addition of grated celeriac.

To avoid having loads of leftover cabbage, organize a party and scale it and the dressing up to industrial proportions.

Planning

serves: 4-6
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • ¼ white cabbage, very finely shredded
  • ¼ red cabbage, very finely shredded
  • ½ red onion, finely sliced
  • 1 medium-large carrot, peeled & grated
  • ¼ celeriac, peeled & grated (optional)
  • 1 qty Coleslaw Dressing

Method

In a very large bowl, mix together all the dry ingredients thoroughly to distribute them. Now add the dressing and give it another thorough mixing. You want the salad dressed but not swimming – certainly not like the pots of the stuff bought in supermarkets.


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Posted in Accompaniments, Salads Tagged with:

Coleslaw Dressing

I seem to have to look this up whenever I make Coleslaw, which I do quite regularly but relatively infrequently. So, I thought I should make a note of it. The Dijon mustard could be regarded as optional but I think a little more mustard flavour than the wholegrain provides is helpful.

These are the basic ratios of the ingredients but the actual quantities will need adjusting according to how much Coleslaw you are making.

Planning

serves: n/a
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 4 tbs mayonnaise
  • 1 tbs wholegrain mustard
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 tbs apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tsp runny honey
  • Salt & pepper

Method

It you are desperate, you could go to the lengths of making your own mayonnaise. If you do, use a little extra virgin olive oil for flavour but use mainly sunflower oil for lightness. However, I find Hellmans does a perfectly respectable job.

Adding a little salt and pepper to taste, just put everything into a suitable glass bowl and whisk together using a balloon whisk. Be gentle otherwise the vinegar may end up outside the bowl, to start with.


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Posted in Basics Tagged with:

Maureen’s Nutty Wheat Bread

One from Carol’s friend, Maureen, who hails from South Africa originally. The South African main ingredient was “Nutty Wheat” which I suspect is not available over here; apparently 4/5ths flour and 1/5th wheat bran is an equivalent. Apologies for the horrendous American cup measures.

Planning

serves: n/a
preparation time: 1 hr
cooking time: 1 hr

Ingredients

  • 4 cups Nutty Wheat
  • 1 cup oats
  • ½ cup sunflower seeds
  • 1 tbs oil
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1 tbs honey
  • 2½ cups warm water
  • 3 tbs dried yeast
  • Poppy seeds to sprinkle

Method

In a bowl, mix together 1 cup warm water with the honey. Sprinkle the yeast on top and place it in a warm place for 10 minutes until it’s fluffy.

In another bowl, mix together the nutty wheat, oats, sunflower seeds, oil and salt. Mix in the now active yeast mixture together with the remaining water (1½ cups).

Place the dough in a greased loaf tin and sprinkle the top with poppy seeds. Leave this in a warm place to rise – about an hour or until doubled in size.

Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan)/gas 6 and bake the loaf for an hour.


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Posted in Basics Tagged with:

Sesame Crusted Tuna with Avocado

This feels oriental but let’s call it an eclectic mix that bears repetition. It comes from one of the Waitrose recipe cards supposedly ready in 30 minutes (if you work uninterrupted). Its mix of two colours of sesame seeds was interesting and the rice noodles made a refreshing change.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 tbs white sesame seeds
  • 2 tbs black sesame seeds
  • 2 yellowfin tuna steaks
  • 2 tbs light soy sauce
  • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
  • 1 tsp clear honey
  • 1 lime, zest and juice
  • 1 large avocado
  • 4 salad onions, finely sliced
  • 1 mild green chilli, seeded & finely chopped
  • Sunflower oil
  • 200g dried rice noodles
  • Salt & pepper

Method

On a dinner plate, mix the sesame seeds together. Lightly season your tuna steaks with salt and pepper then press them into the sesame seed mixture to coat them well on both sides. Set them aside.

Make the dressing by combining in a small bowl the soy sauce, sesame oil and honey with half the lime juice and zest. Give it a good whisk together to dissolve the honey.

In another bowl, make the avocado salsa mixture. Halve the avocado and remove the stone. Scoop out small chunks of the avocado flesh into the bowl and add half the salad onions. Add the chopped chilli with the remaining half of the lime juice and a sprinkle of salt. Stir to combine (the lime juice should preserve the colour of the avocado).

Follow your rice noodle instructions. My dried fine ribbon noodles just wanted soaking in boiling water for four minutes. Drain and stir through the remaining salad onions and lime zest. Divide them between two wide, shallow bowls This could be done while the tuna steaks are frying (next).

Heat to almost smoking a couple of tablespoons of sunflower oil in a suitable frying pan. Fry the sesame-coated tuna steaks to your liking, about two minutes on each side depending on thickness and pinkness.

Sit the tuna steaks on the rice noodles and spoon around the avocado salsa. Drizzle the soy dressing over the lot.


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Posted in Fish Tagged with:

Steak a l’Echalote

From Claude Bosi: this is an absolute staple at any French bistro. There are variations, but this uses caramelised shallots and red wine which creates a beautiful glossy sauce for the meat.

I was getting there when I did my Guineafowl Breast with a shallot sauce on holiday in France. That uses a rose wine and I really don’t think the garlic is necessary or, indeed, helps.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 tbs vegetable oil
  • 4 échalion shallots
  • 3 cloves garlic (not sure)
  • a few sprigs thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 375ml Beaujolais red wine
  • 200ml beef stock
  • 25g salted butter
  • 2 ribeye or rump steaks
  • 1 tbs vegetable oil
  • 25g salted butter
  • 1 clove garlic, bashed
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • Salt & pepper

Method

For the sauce, put 1 tbsp oil in a medium saucepan. Add the shallots, garlic and herbs; season. Cover with a lid and sweat over a low heat for 10-12 minutes until soft.

Take the lid off the shallots, pour in the red wine, then turn up the heat to medium-high and reduce to a glaze (12-15 minutes). Pour in the stock and simmer for a further 10 minutes, until reduced and slightly syrupy: strain through a sieve into a measuring Jug. You should have about 100ml sauce: set aside.

Brush the steaks with 1 tbsp oil and season. Heat a frying pan over a high heat, add the steaks and sear for 2 minutes on each side. Add 25g butter plus the garlic, thyme and rosemary; baste for 1-2 minutes (for medium-rare), ensuring all cut edges are browned. Transfer the steaks to a warm plate to rest for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, set the pan back over a low-medium heat, pour in the sauce and add the butter. Heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring until the butter is melted.

Slice the steaks against the grain and arrange on plates with the shaltot sauce poured over. Serve with a dressed salad (Little Gem Lettuce works well).


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Posted in Meat Tagged with:

Devilled Butter

On an unsettled weather spring visit to Cirencester, I found a pub/restaurant with an interesting menu for lunch. What I could not resist was a dish of Lambs Kidneys on Sourdough Toast with Devilled Butter. It was excellent.

I’d already done some research into Devilled Kidneys but this seemed to top the pile so I went in search of a Devilled Butter recipe. Here it is, as yet untried but it will be as soon as I can get some more Lambs Kidneys.

This uses both Cayenne Pepper and Paprika so I may try using Spanish Hot Smoked Paprika as a personal variation.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 4 tbs butter
  • 1 tsp mustard
  • ½ tsp curry powder
  • ½ tsp malt vinegar
  • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
  • ¼ tsp paprika

Method

Mix all the dry ingredients together.

Melt the butter over gentle heat. Stir in the dry ingredients then add the vinegar and mustard.


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Posted in Sauces Tagged with:

Onion Gravy

I found a source of Faggots – British “meatballs” made of minced pork and pig liver – of which I’m very fond. Onion gravy seems to be the traditional accompaniment so off I went.

A thought occurred to me as I was making it. Pour this over faggots in England and it’s Onion Gravy. Top it with a crôuton and grated cheese in France and it’s French Onion Soup. Funny old world.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 15mins

Ingredients

  • 2 medium-large onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tbs sunflower oil
  • 2 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 tbs red wine vinegar
  • 1½ tbs plain flour
  • 500ml beef stock
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Fry the onions in the oil until starting to turn golden. Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until caramelised. Tip in the vinegar and sizzle off the astringency. Stir in the flour to blend it well. Now pour in the stock and stir well. Continue stirring and cooking gently until it thickens to your liking (you can adjust with a flour/oil mixture or water as necessary).

I used this poured over faggots and baked in the oven at 160°C for an hour.


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Posted in Sauces Tagged with:

Pappardelle with Chicken Livers

I love offal and I’m a huge fan of Chicken Livers, which are very versatile. They make a wonderful warm salad (salade tiède) and the Spanish love ’em as a tapa.

I need to try this approach from Mark Hix, though, ‘cos it sort of echoes a chicken liver and pasta dish we loved in Spain. I tried Mr. Hix’s Sea Bass with Ras el Hanout which was an unmitigated disaster, the Ras el Hanout doing the Sea Bass absolutely no favours whatsoever, in my opinion. This looks a lot more conventional and safe, though.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 25 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 banana shallots
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 400g chicken livers
  • 100ml Marsala
  • 100ml chicken stock
  • 400g pappardelle
  • 60g butter
  • 2 tbsp parsley, chopped
  • Parmesan, freshly grated, to serve
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Clean and chop the chicken livers into rough 1 inch/2.5cm pieces

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan and gently cook the shallot and garlic without colouring. Turn up the heat. Season the livers and add them to the pan, frying them over a high heat and stirring every so often until they begin to colour (a couple of minutes).

Tip the livers on to a chopping board and chop them finely with a large knife then return them to the pan along with the Marsala and stock. Cook on a high heat until the liquid has reduced by about half and the sauce has thickened a little. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Meanwhile, cook the pappardelle in boiling salted water according to the packet instructions, until al dente, then drain.

Stir two-thirds of the sauce through the pasta, along with the butter and parsley. Transfer to warmed plates, then spoon over the rest of the sauce. Serve with some grated Parmesan.


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Posted in Meat Tagged with: