Pork and Cider Hotpot

This began life as a very basic but quite effective recipe by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall from Waitrose Food Illustrated. It is still a basic recipe but has a few personal modifications.

Firstly, good ol’ Hugh wasted the tasty browning bits from the pork by cooking it in a separate pan but who would want to do that? Secondly, I find the addition of lashings of celery combines well and adds umami, not to mantion a veggie unit.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 2½ hrs

Ingredients

  • 500g pork belly, skinned & cubed (2cm)
  • 1 large onion, peeled & chopped
  • ½ head celery, very finely sliced
  • 1 tbs plain flour
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 500ml dry cider
  • 1½ tsp mustard
  • salt & pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 150°C/gas 2.

Begin by browning the pork cubes in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. You will probably need to do this in two batches to avoid overcrowding the meat. Remove the pork and set aside.

Add the onions and celery to the pan, lower the heat a little and gently cook the vegetables, stirring frequently, until soft but not brown (about 15 mins). Sprinkle in, say, 1 tablespoon flour for thickening and stir well. Return the pork to the pan, together with any accumulated juices and stir well again. Finally add the thyme, bay leaf and enough cider to just cover the meat and veggies. Bring to a simmer before covering the casserole and transfering it to the oven. Cook it for 2 hours.

Taste the juices, stir in the mustard and season to taste. Serve with mashed potato to soak up the juices.


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Petit Salé

This is not a recipe to eat but a recipe to make a facsimile of a French ingredient – lightly salted belly pork. The result is something milder and more pork-like than green streaky bacon, which is probably the closest regularly available (in the UK) substitute. Once cured, it is used in a variety of traditional French dishes such as Cassoulet and Petit Salé aux Lentilles .

Planning

serves: depends
preparation time: 7 days
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 30g caster sugar
  • 5g sodium nitrite (optional – cosmetic)
  • 15g juniper berries
  • 8 allspice berries
  • 1 tsp peppercorns
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 6 cloves
  • 5 dried bay leaves
  • 500g salt
  • 2 kg belly pork

Method

Sterilize your hands, the work surface and a container (large enough to hold your pork) before proceeding. (Apparently, Milton Fluid works nicely.)

Put everything down to but not including the salt into a spice grinder or food processor and blitz it all together to a powder. If you started in a spice grinder, transfer now to a food processot, add the salt and blitz for another 30 seconds. You now have Sel Aromatisé .

Cover the bottom of your sterilized container with a layer of the Sel Aromatisé . Rub as much Sel Aromatisé into the piece of pork belly as you can then place it skin-side on top of the layer of Sel Aromatisé in the container. Pour the remaining Sel Aromatisé over it and cover with a lid or cling film. Refrigerate for 7 days then rinse and soak in clean, cold water for 24 hours to desalinate. Change the water 4 times.

Refrigerated, it will apparently keep for about 2 weeks but personally, I’d set about making a cassoulet almost immediately (assuming, of course, that I also had some Duck Confit ).


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Pâte Sucrée

This is a transcription of a recipe from The French Cookery School published years ago in parts in The Observer Magazine from Anne Willan of La Varenne, in Paris.

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz flour
  • large pinch salt
  • 3½ oz caster sugar
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 1 tsp vanilla essence
  • 4 oz butter

Method

Sift the flour onto a marble slab or board and make a well in the centre. Put the salt, sugar, egg yolks and vanilla in th ewelland mix them with your fingers until the sugar dissolves. Pound the butter to soften it slightly, add it to the well and quickly work it with the other ingredients, using your fingertips to pull the dough into large crumbs.

To mix the dough thoroughly, work it in a few batches by pushing it on the working surface away from you with the heel of the hand and gathering it up with a dough scraper until smooth and pliable. Press the dough into a ball, roll lightly in flour to smooth it and wrap in non-stick parchment, foil, plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Chill for at least 30 mins or until firm. The dough can be stored, tightly warpped, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen.


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Pâte Brisée

This is a transcription of a recipe from The French Cookery School published years ago in parts in The Observer Magazine from Anne Willan of La Varenne, in Paris.

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz flour
  • 4 oz butter
  • 2 egg yolks
  • level tsp salt
  • 3½ – 4 tbs cold water

Method

Sift the flour onto a marble slab or board and make a well in the centre. Pound the butter to soften it slightly. Place the butter, egg yolks, salt and a smaller amount of water in the well and work together with the fingertips until partly mixed. Gradually work in the flour, using the fingertips to pull the dough into large crumbs. If the crumbs are dry, sprinkle over a tablespoon more water. Press the dough firmly together; it should be soft but not sticky.

To mix the dough thoroughly, work it in a few batches by pushing it on the working surface away from you with the heel of the hand and gathering it up with a dough scraper until smooth and pliable. Press the dough into a ball, roll lightly in flour to smooth it and wrap in non-stick parchment, foil, plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Chill for at least 30 mins or until firm. The dough can be stored, tightly warpped, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen.


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Partridge with Orange and Vermouth Sauce

This recipe is from Supercook . Partridge are great roasted with sage and pancetta. Here, to give some variety, they are sautéed and served with this splendid orange and vermouth sauce.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 40 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 partridge, halved
  • 2 oz unsalted butter
  • 4 shallots, finely chopped (alternatively 1 medium onion)
  • 6 fl oz chicken stock
  • 4 fl oz dry vermouth
  • 4 fl oz fresh orange juice
  • 5 fl oz double cream
  • 1 tbs chopped chives
  • 1 tbs beurre manié
  • salt and pepper

Method

Clean and dry the partridge halves and sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan (with a lid available). Add the partridge halves and cook them for 6 to 8 minutes until they are lightly browned. Now cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook them for a further 10 to 12 minutes (or until tender) on each side. Transfer the partridges to a serving dish, cover and keep warm while you make the sauce. Retain the juices from the sauté pan but discard all but a tablespoon of fat.

In the retained fat, cook the chopped shallots until soft and translucent (not brown). Pour in the chicken stock and vermouth, raise the heat to high and reduce the liquid by about one third. Reduce the heat to moderate and add the orange juice, double cream and chives. While heating the sauce for a further 2 to 3 minutes, stir constantly and incorporate beurre manié until the sauce is thick and smooth. Do not let it boil.


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Paella

Since paella recipes vary depending upon what might be available, this should be treated as a guideline. Apparently some people get upset with chorizo in a paella but if you don’t call it Paella Valenciana, you might get away with it. I like it and it seems very Spanish though to be authentic, you should probably omit it.

This recipe, with a combination of meat and seafood, would be a paella mixta and it is how I like to make it for a dinner party. As a daily dinner, I make it simply with chicken, chorizo and prawns. Naturally, you can change the green vegetable – fine beans, halved, for example.

When adjusting the quantities for a different number, keep the total liquid quantity twice that of the rice.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 60 mins

Ingredients

  • 4-6 langoustines (1 each – or large crevettes)
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 small chicken (~2 lbs)
  • 1 chorizo sausage, chunked
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 red pepper, seeded & chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 3 large tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1 tsp salt
  • ½ tsp pepper
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 12 oz paella (bomba) rice
  • 30 fl oz water
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • pinch saffron threads soaked in another 6 fl oz warm water
  • 8 oz peas, shelled
  • 6 oz large prawns
  • 1 net mussels
  • 1 tbs chopped fresh parsley

Method

Scrub, de-beard and steam the mussels until only just opened. Remove most of the mussels from their shells but keep a few whole for decoration, if you like. Cut the chicken up into large-bite-size chunks. Bone the leg meat but joint the wings and leave the wing bones in.

In a large, deep frying pan (a paella pan if you happen to have one), heat the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the chicken and chorizo chunks and fry them for about 10 minutes until the chicken is brown. Remove the chicken and chorizo from the pan. The chorizo should have flavoured and coloured the olive oil beautifully.

Add the onion and red pepper to the pan and fry for 5-10 mins until the onion is soft and translucent but not brown. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. Add salt, pepper and paprika stir in, then add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes or so until the tomatoes turn to pulp and the mixture thickens a little.

Add the rice to the pan and, stirring frequently, cook it for 3 mins until the grains become a little transparent. Add the water, lemon juice and the saffron mixture and bring to the boil. Return the chicken and chorizo to the pan and add the shelled peas. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 20 mins or so, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is almost all absorbed. Stir in the prawns and shelled mussels and cook for another few mins until just done – about 5 minutes. If you want the bottom of the rice toasted, as the Spanish do, do this last bit over higher heat.

Meanwhile, either cook (if raw) or reheat (if precooked) the langoustines/crevettes. Either way, 1 minute in boiling water should suffice.

Remove the pan from the heat and decorate with the langoustines and mussels in their shells. Sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve immediately with copious quantities of dry white Spanish wine.


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Paad Thai

Thai stir-fried noodles. Since most commentators say that there are as many variations as there are cooks in Thailand, I will deliberately avoid the use of the word “classic”.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 25 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 225 g dried rice noodles
  • 450 g raw prawns, shelled & de-veined
  • 2 tbs groundnut oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 4 shallots, finely sliced
  • 2 fresh Thai chillies, deseeded & chopped
  • 175 g fresh beansprouts
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 tbs light soy sauce
  • 1 tbs lime juice
  • 2 tbs Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 lime, cut into wedges
  • 3 tbs fresh coriander, chopped
  • 4 spring onions, sliced diagonally
  • 3 tbs roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
  • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes

Method

Soak the rice noodles in warm water for 20 mins, then drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat and, when the oil smokes a little, stir-fry the prawns for 2 mins. Remove the prawns with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Back to the wok, add the garlic, shallots and chillies, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Now add the noodles and stir-fry for another minute. Now add the beansprouts, eggs, soy sauce, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and some ground black pepper and continue to stir-fry for 3 mins. Finally, return the prawns to the wok and stir-fry for another 2 mins.

Turn the mixture onto a platter and garnish with the lime wedges, coriander, spring onions, peanuts and chilli flakes, and serve at once.


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Oatcakes

There’s a long way to go to find a better accompaniment to cheese, especially the blue variety, than the humble Scottish Oatcake. Here’s a recipe based on something I found on the Hamlyns web site.

Planning

serves: 15 oatcakes
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 25 mins

Ingredients

  • 8 oz oatmeal (I like fine but …)
  • 4 oz plain flour
  • 2 oz margarine
  • 5 tbs warm water
  • 1 tsp caster sugar
  • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • ½ tsp salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 175°C. Cover a baking tray with baking parchment (or, preferably, one of those absolutely wonderful re-useable teflon baking sheets).

Mix all the dry ingredients together in a bowl. Melt the margarine in the water and mix this into the dry ingredients to form a fairly stiff dough. (As usual, liquid is not a precise measurement and you may need to adjust it, as I did.) Knead it a little and roll it out to a thickness of about 3mm. Cut the dough into disks about 2½ inches across and place these, slightly separated, on the baking sheet. Bake them for 20 – 25 mins.

Cool them on a wire rack before devouring with the best blue stilton you can find!


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Nettle Soup

It may sound bizarre but, once a year when the stinging nettles are young and fresh (usually early April), they make a great soup. The colour can be a stunning green.

Take care and, using some good rubber gloves or the like, harvest the youngest and tenderest top leaves of the new nettles. The quantity is approximately one standard washing-up bowl full. I strip the leaves from the stems, again using those trusty rubber gloves and, clearly, they need a darn good washing before drying in a salad spinner.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 2 hrs
cooking time: 45 mins

Ingredients

  • 30g butter
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 4 medium new potatoes, quartered
  • 400g nettles, prepared as above
  • 400ml chicken stock
  • 250ml semi-skimmed milk
  • salt & pepper

Method

In a pan large enough to take all the nettles, first melt the butter. Sweat the onion and potatoes together until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the nettles and sweat these, stirring constantly until they wilt. Then put in the chicken stock and milk and bring to simmering point. Add a little salt (I think cooking it with salt helps develop the flavour) but take care not to over do it at this stage. Simmer all together gently (take care it doesn’t boil over) for about 35 minutes until the potatoes are cooked through.

Blitz the soup in a liquidizer to a very smooth consistency. (You’ll probably have to do this in two batches depending upon the capacity of your liquidizer.) Return it to the pan and reheat it before adjusting the seasoning to taste with salt & pepper.


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Moussaka

The first and most important rule of Moussaka is to ignore all recipes that use potato instead of aubergine. The second rule of Moussaka is to serve lots of retsina. I think the atmosphere is enhanced if you play Greek music while you eat it but I understand your disagreeing. With or without the music, please don’t break the plates afterwards! This is basically a recipe from the Marshall Cavendish Handbook of Good Cooking .

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 45 mins
cooking time: 1½ hrs

Ingredients

  • 1½ lbs minced lamb
  • 1½ lbs aubergines
  • 6 oz onions
  • 8 ozs tomatoes
  • 5 fl oz olive oil
  • 1 tsp ground allspice
  • 1 tbs chopped fresh parsley
  • 15 fl oz béchamel sauce (coating consistency)
  • yolk of 1 large egg
  • large pinch grated nutmeg
  • 3 oz Parmesan cheese, grated

Method

Wipe, top and tail the aubergines, then cut them into ¼ inch slices. Sprinkle them with salt and place them in a colander to degorge them for 30 mins. Meanwhile, peel and thinly slice the onions; blanch, peel, de-seed and chop the tomatoes. Drain and dry the aubergine slices on kitchen paper.

Heat 3 tbs olive oil in a large frying pan over low heat and fry the aubergine slices gently until tender, turning once. Add extra oil if necessary as you go. Drain the fried slices on kitchen paper.

In the same pan, fry the onions gently in 2 tbs oil until soft and lightly coloured. Add the lamb and fry, stirring until lightly browned. Add the tomatoes, allspice, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well, cover and cook very gently for about 20 mins.

Heat the oven to gas mark 4. In a deep oven-proof dish, arrange alternate layers of aubergine and meat, finishing with aubergine. Warm the béchamel sauce very gently over low heat, then stir in the egg yolk and nutmeg together with salt and pepper to taste Pour the sauce evenly over the surface of the dish and sprinkle the top with the grated Parmesan. Bake in the centre of the oven for 45 mins until the top is lightly golden and bubbling.

Serve this with Greek Salad and lashings of cold retsina.


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