Gurnard with Nettle Butter

This is a little curiosity I came up with in Cornwall where the gurnard (red or grey, it matters not) are usually excellent. We’d taken to travelling to Cornwall in the spring when the stinging nettles are at their prime, too. The taste of stinging nettles with a touch of good ol’ garlic compliments the gurnard very well indeed. For complete Cornish authenticity, if you are lucky enough to have a local supply, use Cornish wild garlic, too.

A 1 kg gurnard (weighed whole) will serve two admirably. (There’s quite a bit of wasted weight ‘cos gurnards have a large head.) If the fish are smaller, use one each.

Maybe I should commend this recipe to Mr Stein. 🙂

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 (gloved!) handfuls nettle tops
  • 2 large or 4 smaller gurnard fillets
  • salt & pepper
  • 75g butter
  • 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped

Method

First, with a gloved hand, pick only the fresh, young tops of the nettles. Remove the leaves from the stems and wash them. Blanch the leaves in boiling water for 10 – 15 seconds then drain and refresh them in cold water to arrest their cooking. They are now safe to handle without the gloves. Drain the leaves once again, gently squeeze out excess moisture and dry them as best you can in a clean kitchen towel. Roughly chop the leaves and set them aside.

Melt the butter over medium heat in a frying pan large enough to hold the gurnard fillets. Season the fillets well with salt and pepper, and, when the foam subsides, add them to the frying pan. Cook the fillets for 2 – 3 minutes on each side, depending upon their thickness, turning once. Remove the gurnard fillets to warmed serving plates while you finish the nettle butter.

Stir the chopped garlic and nettles into the butter and cooking juices. Fry these gently for a minute or two before spooning the mixture over and around the gurnard fillets.

(Some boiled new potatoes – though it’s probably a bit too early for Jersey Royals – and tenderstem broccoli would be perfect accompaniments.)


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Merluza a la Plancha

The Spanish love their hake. Actually, they love our hake, which they’ve been pinching for years. I’d spent a frustrating but amusing afternoon looking for Spanish Merluza a la Plancha recipes on the internet. The amusement stemmed from the absolutely dreadful automated browser translations offered of Spanish language pages. There’s clearly something about Spanish that makes it harder to translate mechanically than French, which seems to get a half-way reasonable job done. In between the tears of laughter, it was enough, however, to give me the basic idea. This is my attempt at what seems to me to be the essence of the dish.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 6-8 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 hake steaks, ~2½cms thick
  • salt & pepper
  • olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, finely sliced
  • 2 tbs fresh parsley, chopped
  • juice of a lemon

Method

Immediately before you are ready to cook, sprinkle the hake steaks with a little lemon juice, then season them with salt and pepper. (Avoid salting it too soon because it draws the juices out of the fish.) Sprinkle a little of the parsley – about a quarter in all – on both sides of each hake steak, too.

On gentle heat, heat a little olive oil in a skillet (preferably black iron) or, if you have one a flat griddle. Toss in the garlic and stir it around until it begins to colour, then remove it with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat to moderate and put in the hake steaks. Cook the steaks for 3-4 minutes on each side – you want them to take on a light golden brown colour. Remove the hake to warmed serving plates.

Add the remaining parsley and lemon juice to the pan (you may need a little more olive oil, too). Stir this around briefly, scraping any tasty bits into the juice and pour it over the hake steaks.

This works well with the Spring Vegetables recipe and some oven-roasted vine cherry tomatoes. New potatoes with olive oil don’t go amiss, either.


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Smoked Haddock and Leek Tart

Another one to try from my favourite fish man, Mr. Stein. Let’s translate this into French and call it a Quiche, eh? Something like: Quiche d’Aiglefin Fumé et Poireaux .

Planning

serves: 6-8
preparation time: 1 hr
cooking time: 50-60 mins

Ingredients

  • 25g/1oz butter
  • 225g/8oz leeks, cleaned & thinly sliced
  • 350g/12oz undyed smoked haddock
  • small bunch of chives
  • 3 1arge eggs
  • 284ml/9½ fl oz carton double cream
  • 3 tbsp finely grated parmesan (optional)
  • Savoury Rich Shortcrust Pastry made with 225g/8oz flour

Method

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry in to a round large enough to fit a 25cm/lOin loose-bottomed flan tin about 4cm/1½in deep. Prick the base here and there with a fork and chill for 20 mins.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large pan, add the leeks and some seasoning and cook gently, uncovered, for 15 mins, stirring occasionally until they are very tender. Bring some water to the boil in a large shallow pan. Add the haddock and simmer for 4 mins, until just cooked. Lift out onto a plate and leave until cool enough to handle, then break the fish into flakes, discarding any skin and bones.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas 6. Line the pastry case with non-stick baking parchment and baking beans. Place on a baking sheet and bake blind for 15 mins. Remove the paper and beans, and return the empty case to the oven for 5 mins until cooked and lightly golden. Remove from the oven. (The pastry case, leeks and haddock can all be prepared up to a day ahead to this stage. When cool, store the pastry in an airtight container, and the leeks and fish in the fridge.)

Turn oven down to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5. Snip the chives into the leeks and scatter them over the base of the pastry case. Scatter the flaked fish over the top. Beat the eggs with the cream, parmesan and some seasoning, then pour over the leeks and fish. Bake for 30-35 mins until just set and lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly before serving.


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Spring Vegetables

An odd title considering that the canned artichoke hearts are a somewhat less-than-usual ingredient; I’d have thought a title featuring them might be appropriate. Nonetheless, this came from an Easter publication tossed out by the Radio Times. The artichokes remind me of Spain, where they are very popular and readily available, so I decided to try this with Merluza a la Plancha (Spanish griddled hake) – and very successful it was, too. 😉

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 20 mins

Ingredients

  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 6 spring onions, chopped
  • 2 sprigs thyme, leaves only chopped
  • 280g/10oz jar/tin artichoke hearts (~4), drained and halved
  • 350g/12oz peas
  • grated zest 1 lemon, plus squeeze of juice
  • knob of butter
  • small handful parsley leaves, chopped

Method

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the garlic and spring onions, then cook over a medium heat for 5 mins until the onions have softened.

Add the thyme, artichokes and peas, stir to combine. Tip in lemon juice, then cook for 5-10 mins until the peas are just done. Stir in lemon zest, butter and parsley, season to taste, then serve.


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Sweet Rich Shortcrust Pastry

This crisp and crumbly mouth-watering pastry made with self-raising flour breaks all the rules but gives a special taste and texture to all sweet pies, large or small.

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz self-raising flour
  • pinch salt
  • 1 oz caster sugar
  • 2 oz butter
  • 2 oz block margarine
  • 1 oz lard
  • 1 egg yolk
  • milk, to mix

Method

Sift the flour, salt and caster sugar (if using) into a mixing bowl. Rub in the butter, margarine and lard with the finger tips to the fine breadcrumb stage.

Add the egg yolk and enough milk to mix to a pliable dough using a round bladed knife.

Turn the dough on to a lightly floured surface and kneed lightly until smooth and even. Chill wrapped for 30 mins before using.


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Savoury Rich Shortcrust Pastry

Planning

serves:  
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time:  

Ingredients

  • 8 oz self-raising flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 3 oz butter
  • 2 oz lard
  • water, to mix

Method

Put the flour, salt and butter into a food processor and pulse together until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs (or make pastry the traditional way, rubbing in the butter by hand). Stir in 1½-2 tbsp of water with a round-bladed table knife until the mixture starts to come together into a ball. Turn pastry onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly until smooth. Cover and allow to rest for 20 mins in the fridge before using in y9ur chosen recipe.


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Potato Gnocchi

Unlike fresh pasta, the commercial versions of which are so good now that it hardly seems worth making it yourself (unless for special ravioli), commercial potato gnocchi are relatively heavy compared to their homemade equivalents. Making your own is, therefore, worth the effort.

Be warned: they do not store well so cook them soon after you have made them.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 5 mins

Ingredients

  • 800g floury potatoes such as King Edward or Maris Piper
  • 2 medium egg yolks, lightly beaten
  • 200g plain flour
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • Freshly grated nutmeg

Method

Peel the potatoes and cut into large, even pieces. Boil them in salted water for 8-12 minutes, depending upon th esize, until just tender. Drain thoroughly, then return to the pan and place on a very low heat for 3-5 minutes to drive off all the excess moisture from the potatoes.

Mash the potatoes, preferably with a mouli or potato ricer, then mix in the egg yolks, flour, seasoning and nutmeg. Tip the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead lightly until smooth.

Divide the dough into workable pieces (about fist-sized) and work with one piece at a time. Roll each piece into a sausage about 2cm in diameter, then cut this into 2cm chunks. Use a fork to flatten the chunks slightly and print the traditional lines on the gnocchi. Place them a floured tray, making sure they do not touch.

Bring a pan of lightly salted water to a gentle boil. Drop in as many gnocchi as will comfortably fit the pan and simmer gently. Don’t stir or the gnocchi may disintegrate. As they cook, they’ll bob to the surface. Give them about 1 minute from the time they surface, then scoop them out with a slotted spoon. Drain them on a plate lined with kitchen paper, then transfer them to a warm dish. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi until all are cooked.

Toss with your chiosen hot sauce or melted butter with fresh sage leaves and serve immediately.


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Stufatino alla Romana

This is quite strongly flavoured Italian beef stew that I cooked, originally, more years ago than I care to remember. I remember its being quite interesting largely. I think, due to the combination of celery with beef. Other than that, it’s a pretty standard “Beef in red wine” kind of meal but it tastes pretty good. Here I go reviving a wintery blast from the past.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 25 mins
cooking time: 1½ hrs

Ingredients

  • 2 oz flour
  • 1 tsp pepper
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp dried marjoram
  • 2 lbs beef top rump, cubed
  • olive oil
  • 6 oz green streaky bacon, rinds removed & chopped
  • 1 medium onion, sliced & pushed into rings
  • 2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 tbs fresh marjoram, chopped
  • 8 fl oz red wine
  • 4 floz beef stock
  • 2 tbs tomato purée

Method

In a large plastic bag, combine the flour, pepper, salt and dried marjoram. Add the beef cubes, seal the bag and toss it about to coat the beef with the seasoned flour. Set the beef aside on a plate.

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the olive oil and fry the bacon pieces, stirring occasionally, until they are crisp and have rendered their fat. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the onion and celery to the pan and fry gently for 6 to 8 minutes until the onion is soft and translucent but not brown. Shake excess flour off the beef cubes and add them to the casserole, stirring occasionally for another 6 to 8 minutes to brown them lightly. Add the fresh marjoram, reserved bacon, and stir in the stock and wine. Bring to the boil and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes or until th eliquid has reduced by about half. Stir in the tomato purée and continue to simmer for a further 30 minutes.

The sauce should be thick and dark by the time the stufatino is cooked. We’re trying it with some homemade gnocchi and some tenderstem broccoli.


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Tuna with JC’s Thai Salad

This is my modification of one of Rick Stein’s excellent ideas. Rick (or should I say Mr Stein?) makes a noodle salad but I prefer this variation using blanched oriental vegetables. The tuna needs to be thick enough (1 inch or more) to glaze it in the sauce. If it’s thinner, to avoid overcooking, just sear it plain on a very hot ridged griddle pan. (Or of course, if you prefer it plain, just griddle it anyway!)

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 20 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 lb bean sprouts
  • 4 oz mangetout or snow peas
  • 4 oz baby sweetcorn
  • 2 mild red chillies
  • 1 bunch fresh coriander
  • juice and zest of 1 lime
  • 2 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
  • 2 tbsp sunflower oil
  • 4 thick tuna steaks
  • 6 tbs. dark soy sauce (optional)
  • 4 tbs balsamic vinegar (optional)

Method

First, make the salad. Cut the peas and sweetcorn into 1½ cm pieces. Drop them into a large pan of boiling, salted water over high heat. As soon as it returns to the boil, add the bean sprouts. When it returns to the boil again, drain the vegetables and refresh them immediately in cold water to arrest the cooking. When cool, dry them in a salad spinner and add to a salad bowl. Deseed and finely chop the fresh chillis and add these to the salad. Strip the coriander leaves and add these whole to the salad, too.

Now make the salad dressing. Mix the lime juice and zest, Thai fish sauce, sesame and sunflower oils, and let them infuse until you are ready to serve. Do not dress the salad until immediately before serving.

If you are doing the tuna with the sauce, mix the soy sauce and balsamic vinegar together. Lightly oil a frying pan and set it over moderately high heat. When hot, drop in the tuna steaks and flash fry them on both sides just to seal them. Throw in the sauce mixture keeping the heat up. It will bubble vigourously and start reducing. Turn the tuna steaks a couple of times to get both sides well coated with the glaze as it reduces. It should take about 2-3 minutes.

Alternatively, without the sauce option, heat your griddle pan and sear the tuna on both sides. Either way, please make sure you leave the tuna very pink in the middle.

Dress the salad and serve it with your chosen tuna.


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Roasted Red Pepper Salsa

Roasted red peppers and tomatoes are natural companions. This accompanies plain grilled or pan-fried fish fillets very well.

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 20 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 large red pepper
  • 2 plum tomatoes
  • 1 mild red chilli
  • 10-12 leaves basil
  • 1 clove garlic
  • olive oil
  • salt

Method

Remove the pith and seeds from the red pepper, split it in half and flatten it. Grill under highest possible heat until the skin blisters and blackens. Put it in a bowl covered with cling film and let it steam for a few minutes. (This helps release the skin.) Skin it and cut into fine dice.

Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute and skin them. Deseed the tomatoes and cut these into fine dice also.

Top, tail and deseed the red chilli and chop it finely.

Add these three ingredients to a bowl and tear in the basil leaves. Skin the garlic clove and grate it into the mixture.

To use it cold, add the olive oil and salt to taste at this stage and mix all to combine the flavours. Chill until required.

Alternatively, you can use it warmed: add the olive oil to a small skillet and warm it over gentle heat. Add the salsa ingredients and stir constantly to warm it through. Be careful not to cook it.


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