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Romesco de Peix

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Romesco is a traditional Catalan sauce made with pounded nuts and peppers. Here, a derivative of it is used to make a Catalan fish and shellfish stew. Firm fish, such as monkfish, works well in a stew but careful substitutions can be made. Similarly, the shellfish can vary between clams, mussels and prawns, depending upon availability. I’d use less fish stock for mussels or clams, which release their own liquid, than prawns, which do not.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 6 tbs olive oil
  • 1 large onion, preferably Spanish, roughly chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
  • 2 tbs rosemary, finely chopped
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 red peppers, quartered, seeded & thinly sliced
  • ½ tsp sweet smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón)
  • 400g tin plum tomatoes, drained & roughly chopped
  • 150ml white wine
  • 150ml (for clams/mussels, which release liquid) or 200ml (for prawns) fish stock
  • 1 tsp saffron threads, infused in 4 tbs boiling water
  • 150g whole blanched almonds, lightly toasted and ground
  • 650g monkfish fillets, cut into large chunks
  • 500g mussels/clams/raw prawns
  • Salt & pepper

Method

In a deep sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion together with a pinch of salt and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until golden and sweet (about 15-20 minutes). Then stir in the garlic, rosemary, bay leaves and red peppers. When the red pepper has softened for at least 10 minutes, stir in the paprika and tomatoes and simmer for another 10 minutes. Now add the wine and drive off the alcohol for a couple of minutes before adding the fish stock together with the saffron-infused water. Finally, thicken the base with the ground almonds and taste for seasoning. (You can complete this stage ahead of time.)

When almost ready to eat, reheat the base if necessary and add the fish and shellfish. Put a lid on and simmer until the fish is cooked through and (if appropriate) the shellfish have opened.

This goes well with new potatoes or a raw fennel salad.


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Posted in Starters Tagged with:

Fish Crumble

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Yes, I know this might sound strange to those accustomed to an apple crumble but trust me, this savoury crumble works well and has always proved immensely popular with those for whom we’ve cooked it.

The savoury cheese crumble mixture could, I imagine, be more traditionally replaced by a cheesy mashed potato topping, if you preferred, but then it would become a pretty standard fish pie that’d be rather missing the point, in my opinion.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time: 45 mins

Ingredients

  • 1½ lbs (~700 g) white fish (haddock, plaice; hake is excellent)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 pt semi-skimmed milk
  • 4 oz prawns
  • 3 eggs, hard-boiled and sliced
  • 2 oz butter
  • 3½ oz plain flour
  • 2 oz Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
  • pinch of grated nutmeg
  • Salt & pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.

Add the bay leaf and white fish to the milk and bring it to simmering point. Poach the white fish very gently until barely cooked. Remove the fish and let it cool; leave the bay leaf in the milk cooling as well.

When the fish is cool, remove any skin and bones and flake it coarsely into a bowl. Add the prawns and the sliced hard-boiled eggs.

Make the crumble mixture. Rub or process together 2 oz of the plain flour and 1½ oz of the butter until you get the famed bread-crumb stage. Stir in the grated Cheddar and some salt and pepper. Set the mixture aside.

Make a thin white sauce with the poaching liquid. Strain the milk into a jug and sprinkle in the pinch of nutmeg. Melt the remaining ½ oz butter in a small saucepan over low heat. When the foam subsides, stir in the remaining ½ oz plain flour and cook gently, stirring frequently until the mixture is pale (2-3 minutes). Remove the pan from the heat and gradually add the reserved poaching milk, beating vigorously between additions to ensure a smooth consistency is achieved. Return the pan to the heat and bring it to a simmer, stirring constantly. Gently cook out the flour taste for a couple of minutes, then stir it gently into the fish, prawn and egg mixture.

Assemble the crumble. Tip the fish mixture into an appropriately sized dish. Cover it with the crumble mixture and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes until the top is golden brown.


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Posted in Fish Tagged with:

Celery and Stilton Soup

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This one’s entirely down to me. This is one of jolly old England’s classic combinations of flavours turned into a warming soup. These quantities make about a pint/550 ml so you can have either two steaming bowlfuls or four nicely pretentious coffee-cupfuls for a dinner party.

Planning

serves: 2 – 4
preparation time: 5 mins
cooking time: 50 mins

Ingredients

  • 30 g butter
  • 1 medium onion, roughly chopped
  • 3 large ribs celery, roughly chopped
  • 500 ml light chicken stock
  • 60 g blue Stilton cheese, crumbled
  • salt & pepper

Method

Melt the butter in a suitable saucepan over moderate heat and, when the foam subsides, sweat the onion in it for about 5 minutes without colouring. Add the chopped celery and sweat, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes also without colouring. Add the light chicken stock, increase the heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to simmering point and cook gently uncovered for 30 minutes. Liquidize the soup and return it to the saucepan.

Now it’s time to add the cheese. Since Stilton cheeses vary greatly both in strength and saltiness, I suggest that you treat the cheese as a seasoning and add it in stages to avoid over-doing it. Start with about a half (30 g). While gently reheating the soup, add the crumbled Stilton cheese stirring constantly so that it dissolves (this may take about 5 minutes). Taste the soup and try to balance the flavour of both the celery and the Stilton; neither should dominate. Add as much of the cheese as is necessary to achieve this balance.

Finally, adjust the seasoning to taste bearing in mind that you may not need any salt because of the salty Stilton.


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Posted in Soups Tagged with:

French Onion Soup

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This is my take on what is probably the ultimate winter-warmer classic. My variation is the stock. I always found beef stock such a fag to make and, frankly, it never seemed terribly successful (entirely down to me, of course). I do love eating duck and frequently made brown duck stock which I have found to be an excellent, suitably rich alternative which I commend to you.

Of course, since one can now buy very acceptable ready made stocks (for Heaven’s sake do NOT use cubes!), you could go ahead and use a good beef stock if you’d prefer a more original version of Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée .

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 30 mins
cooking time: 2 hrs

Ingredients

  • 6 diagonal slices of baguette, 2.5 cms thick
  • olive oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 750 g onions, halved & finely sliced
  • 50 g butter
  • 4 cloves garlic, crushed
  • ½ tsp granulated sugar
  • 1.2 ltr duck stock (or beef stock)
  • 275 ml dry white wine
  • 2 tbs brandy (optional)
  • salt & pepper
  • 200 g Gruyère cheese, grated

Method

First, make the croûtons. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Drizzle about two tablespoons of olive oil on a baking sheet, add two crushed cloves of garlic and spread it around mixing the garlic into the oil (use your hands). Place the slices of baguette on the oiled sheet turning them over to lightly coat both sides. Bake them in the oven for 20-25 minutes until crisp and crunchy.

Place a 3.5 litre flameproof casserole on high heat and melt the butter and 2 tablespoons of olive oil together. When hot, add the onions, 2 crushed cloves of garlic and the sugar, and fry turning everything occasionally until the onions begin to darken at the edges. (This should take 5 – 6 minures.) Reduce the heat to very low and continue cooking the onions very slowly for 30 minutes more. There should now be some nicely caramelized pan contents.

Pour in the stock and white wine, season, and increase the heat. While it is coming to the boil, stir with a wooden spoon scraping any caramelized residue from the pan bottom. Once at the boil, reduce the heat to very low again and leave it to cook very gently, uncovered, for about one hour. (All the above can be prepared in advance.)

When ready to serve, bring the soup back to simmering point and check for seasoning. Now is also the time to add the brandy if you wish.Serving this out of a tureen is apt to get very messy so I suggest you use individual soup bowls. Pre-heat the grill to high. Ladel the hot soup into the warmed soup bowls and top each with a croûton. Sprinkle the grated Gruyère over the croûtons and place the bowls under the grill until the cheese is golden and bubbling.

Warn your guests not to touch the bowls!


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Posted in Soups Tagged with:

Tomales Salad

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This mixture became one of our staples while house-sitting for a friend in Tomales, California, hence the name. The avocado and tomato flavours blend very well together and make a good accompaniment to grilled fish or meats. Since it was well received by our hosts, I thought I’d document it.(Repeated uses of the word organic are a tongue-in-cheek nod to the fact that absolutely everything in the Tomales area seemed to be organic. Please feel free to use regular, affordable ingredients. I do.)

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 1 very small garlic clove
  • salt
  • 3 tbs extra virgin olive oil
  • rainbow pepper corns
  • 1 tbs dark balsamic vinegar
  • 200g organic salad leaves (we like a mixture)
  • 4 medium organic tomatoes
  • 2 organic avocados

Method

First make the dressing. Crush the garlic clove with a pinch of salt and mix it into the balsamic vinegar. Let it infuse for about five minutes before adding a few twists of ground rainbow pepper and the olive oil. Shake it together to blend.

Put the leaves in a suitable salad bowl. Cut each tomato into eight segments lengthwise and add them to the leaves. Cut each avocado in half and remove the stones. Using a dessert spoon, scoop out relatively fine, roughly half-moon-shaped pieces and add these to the salad bowl. (Don’t do this too far ahead of time ‘cos it’ll discolour.)

Immediately before serving, remix the dressing and dress the salad.


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Posted in Salads Tagged with:

Tuscan Bread Salad

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I’ve been intrigued by an Italian bread salad recipe such as this from Giorgio Locatelli for some time. It’s another idea with many variations and apparently no definitive recipe. I finally got around to trying this one and it was quite successful.

The flavours really do improve overnight. However, because of the “maturing”, the trick lies in getting the correct balance between the amount of bread and the amount of liquid. We want soft, tasty bread but definitely not soggy bread. I suggest adding the dressing gradually, adding more as the salad matures if the bread needs to be a little softer.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: overnight
cooking time: 10-30 mins

Ingredients

  • 1 small loaf country style bread about 2-3 days old
  • 1 small cucumber, roughly chopped
  • 1 large red onion, roughly chopped
  • 3 very ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
  • 5 tbs olive oil
  • 3 tbs red wine vinegar
  • 2 tbs capers. drained
  • 1-2 tbs sugar, to taste
  • 12 fresh basil leaves, roughly crushed
  • salt & pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 170°C/Gas 3. Cut the bread into large cubes and spread it out in a large roasting tin. Toast it in the oven until golden (about 20 minutes). Leave to cool.

In a bowl, mix the cucumber, onion, tomatoes and toasted bread cubes. Season with salt and pepper.

Whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, capers, sugar, some salt and pepper, and add this to the bowl with the basil. Give it a good stir. Cover it and leave it in the fridge overnight for the flavours to mellow. The bread should feel moist but not soggy.

Serve it as a starter or as a salad accompaniment to grilled or roasted meat.

 


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Posted in Salads Tagged with:

Garlic Mashed Potatoes

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A garlic fest that goes extremely well with roast chicken. Don’t be put off by the amount of garlic which might seem quite daunting; it is blanched before use and that moderates its strength of flavour into something entirely softer. Trust me!

Planning

serves: 4 – 6
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 15 mins

Ingredients

  • 18 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1kg potatoes, peeled
  • 30g butter
  • 15g plain flour
  • 150ml milk
  • salt & pepper

Method

Blanch the garlic cloves in boiling water for three minutes. Drain them, let them cool a little, then mince/chop them very finely.

Cut the potatoes into even, large chunks before bringing them to the boil in a pan of salted water and simmering them until tender.

While the potatoes are simmering, make a garlic white sauce. Melt the butter over gentle heat and add the finely minced garlic. Cook the garlic gently in the butter, without colouring, for two or three minutes. Stir in the flour and continue cooking gently for another two or three minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually beat in the milk avoiding any lumps (other than the bits of garlic, of course). When all the milk is incorporated, return the pan to the heat and bring to simmering point whilst stirring. Simmer the thickened sauce for two or three minutes to cook out any raw flour taste.

When the potatoes are tender, mash them and beat in the garlic white sauce.

Be prepared to wish you had made a larger quantity.


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Posted in Veggies Tagged with:

Caesar Salad

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Caesar Salad is, in my opinion, one of the World’s great salads and one of America’s contributions to haute cuisine . Apart from the crispness of the Cos/Romaine lettuce used, this really stands or falls on the dressing. This dressing comes from Delia Smith’s Summer Collection from the days when she cooked properly instead of “cheating” (so sad and such a complete travesty). In fact, this dressing is the reason I bought the book.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 50 g crustless white bread cut into 1cm cubes
  • 1-2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 rounded tbs Parmesan cheese, finely grated
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 1 (very) large egg
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • juice of 1 lime
  • 1 heaped tsp mustard powder
  • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 150 ml olive oil
  • 40 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
  • salt & pepper
  • 2 hearts of Cos/Romaine lettuce
  • 1 x 50 g tin anchovy fillets, drained (but keep the oil for the dressing)

Method

First make some croûtons. Preheat the oven ot 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Place the cubes of bread in a bowl and stir in 1-2 tbs olive oil, the crushed garlic glove and one tbs Parmesan grated cheese. Now spread the croûtons on a baking sheet lined with foil and bake them high in the oven for 10 minutes. Keep watching so that they do not burn. Remove them and let them cool.

Now make the all-important dressing. Break the egg into the bowl of a food processor (a small one is best). Add the garlic clove, 2 anchovy fillets, lime juice, mustard powder and Worcestershire sauce. Blitz that all together until smooth then, keeping the processor running, drizzle in the anchovy oil and olive oil through the feeder funnel. When all the oil is incorporated you should have an emulsified sauce about the consistency of pouring cream. If it’s a little too thick, slacken it slightly by whisking in some water. Season it with salt and pepper to taste.

Break up the lettuce leaves into a serving bowl. Snip in the remaining anchovy fillets (having separated them first, of course) and mix to distribute them. When you are ready to serve, pour over some salad dressing and toss thoroughly to coat the leaves. (You should not need all the dressing.) Sprinkle in the Parmesan, toss again, and scatter over the croûtons.

This makes a great starter. For a variation and to turn it into a more substantial meal for lunch, say, try serving it topped with grilled chicken breasts cut into fine strips. For some real fun, use Cajun blackened chicken breasts.


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Posted in Salads Tagged with:

Thai Chicken Red Curry

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This has developed from a couple of sources including Nigel Slater and Muoi Khuntilanont’s Kitchen. The colour associated with the so-called curry paste is really just down to the colour of the chillies used, though the colour can be enhanced by the addition of other ingredients. You can find a recipe for the red curry paste on this site also.

The use of stock in addition to coconut milk is in no way authentic – it’s a Slater component – but I believe it improves the flavour to my western palate. I made it once for relatives in Singapore and their Filipino house maid’s eyes stared in horror. To stick with tradition, leave it out and increase the quantity of coconut milk accordingly.

In Thailand the curries are often made with their long beans. I would suggest using fine beans or French beans as a reasonably authentic substitute. Another vegetable that I find works quite well is pak choi.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • ½ qty Thai red curry paste
  • sunflower oil
  • 4 chicken breasts cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 300ml coconut milk
  • 150ml homemade chicken stock
  • 200g fine beans/pak choi
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
  • 10g Thai basil leaves, chopped
  • 2 kaffir lime leaves (or grated zest of 1 lime)

Method

If you’re using fine beans, halve them. For pak choi, cut crosswise into, say, 1.5cm chunks.

In a little sunflower oil, briefly fry the curry paste over medium heat until fragrant. Stir in the chicken pieces to coat them in the paste and cook just to firm them up a little. Now stir in the liquids followed by your vegetable of choice. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally.

Chicken breast will overcook and dry out readily so be careful how long you cook it; 10-15 mins should be ample but test it. Once cooked stir in the basil leaves and adjust the seasoning. If it needs a little more salt use a splash more Thai fish sauce.

Serve with boiled Thai fragrant rice.


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Posted in Poultry, Untested Tagged with: ,

Thai Red Curry Paste

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This is really just the red chilli version of the Thai Green Curry Paste. It’s a combination of a spice mix for a Thai-style curry by Nigel Slater and Muoi Khuntilanont’s Kitchen. Muoi’s original uses 15-30 red birdseye chillis; good luck with that on a western palate. Here I use medium hot large red chillis beloved of our supermarkets. Heat can be adjusted by including and removing as many seeds and pith (the hot part) as you think fit.

This makes sufficient for two 4-person curries. Main ingredients spiced with this paste can vary according to preference, normally including a meat or fish component plus a vegetable. Red curry pastes work very well with tiger prawns, too, but put them in near the end of cooking.

Planning

serves:
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time:

Ingredients

  • 4 fresh lemongrass stalks
  • 8 medium-hot red chillies
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 5 cm piece fresh galangal or ginger, peeled and chopped
  • 2 shallots, peeled and chopped
  • 4 tbs fresh coriander stalks, chopped
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • zest and juice of 1 lime
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper

Method

Remove any outer leaves of the lemongrass that are too coarse before slicing it quite finely. According to taste you can remove some of the seeds from the chillies (seeds and pith are the hot parts) prior to chopping them coarsely. Place the lemongrass and chillies, together with the other ingredients into a blender/food processor. Blitz this lot together, scraping down the sides regularly, until you have a thick paste. (You can add a little water to help slacken it if necessary.)

Cover and refrigerate this until you need it. It will keep for about a week in the fridge.


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Posted in Basics Tagged with: ,