Garlic Mashed Potatoes

A garlic fest that goes extremely well with roast chicken. Don’t be put off by the amount of garlic which might seem quite daunting; it is blanched before use and that moderates its strength of flavour into something entirely softer. Trust me!

Planning

serves: 4 – 6
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 15 mins

Ingredients

  • 18 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1kg potatoes, peeled
  • 30g butter
  • 15g plain flour
  • 150ml milk
  • salt & pepper

Method

Blanch the garlic cloves in boiling water for three minutes. Drain them, let them cool a little, then mince/chop them very finely.

Cut the potatoes into even, large chunks before bringing them to the boil in a pan of salted water and simmering them until tender.

While the potatoes are simmering, make a garlic white sauce. Melt the butter over gentle heat and add the finely minced garlic. Cook the garlic gently in the butter, without colouring, for two or three minutes. Stir in the flour and continue cooking gently for another two or three minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually beat in the milk avoiding any lumps (other than the bits of garlic, of course). When all the milk is incorporated, return the pan to the heat and bring to simmering point whilst stirring. Simmer the thickened sauce for two or three minutes to cook out any raw flour taste.

When the potatoes are tender, mash them and beat in the garlic white sauce.

Be prepared to wish you had made a larger quantity.


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Caesar Salad

Caesar Salad is, in my opinion, one of the World’s great salads and one of America’s contributions to haute cuisine . Apart from the crispness of the Cos/Romaine lettuce used, this really stands or falls on the dressing. This dressing comes from Delia Smith’s Summer Collection from the days when she cooked properly instead of “cheating” (so sad and such a complete travesty). In fact, this dressing is the reason I bought the book.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: n/a

Ingredients

  • 50 g crustless white bread cut into 1cm cubes
  • 1-2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 rounded tbs Parmesan cheese, finely grated
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 1 (very) large egg
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • juice of 1 lime
  • 1 heaped tsp mustard powder
  • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 150 ml olive oil
  • 40 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
  • salt & pepper
  • 2 hearts of Cos/Romaine lettuce
  • 1 x 50 g tin anchovy fillets, drained (but keep the oil for the dressing)

Method

First make some croûtons. Preheat the oven ot 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Place the cubes of bread in a bowl and stir in 1-2 tbs olive oil, the crushed garlic glove and one tbs Parmesan grated cheese. Now spread the croûtons on a baking sheet lined with foil and bake them high in the oven for 10 minutes. Keep watching so that they do not burn. Remove them and let them cool.

Now make the all-important dressing. Break the egg into the bowl of a food processor (a small one is best). Add the garlic clove, 2 anchovy fillets, lime juice, mustard powder and Worcestershire sauce. Blitz that all together until smooth then, keeping the processor running, drizzle in the anchovy oil and olive oil through the feeder funnel. When all the oil is incorporated you should have an emulsified sauce about the consistency of pouring cream. If it’s a little too thick, slacken it slightly by whisking in some water. Season it with salt and pepper to taste.

Break up the lettuce leaves into a serving bowl. Snip in the remaining anchovy fillets (having separated them first, of course) and mix to distribute them. When you are ready to serve, pour over some salad dressing and toss thoroughly to coat the leaves. (You should not need all the dressing.) Sprinkle in the Parmesan, toss again, and scatter over the croûtons.

This makes a great starter. For a variation and to turn it into a more substantial meal for lunch, say, try serving it topped with grilled chicken breasts cut into fine strips. For some real fun, use Cajun blackened chicken breasts.


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Thai Chicken Red Curry

This has developed from a couple of sources including Nigel Slater and Muoi Khuntilanont’s Kitchen. The colour associated with the so-called curry paste is really just down to the colour of the chillies used, though the colour can be enhanced by the addition of other ingredients. You can find a recipe for the red curry paste on this site also.

The use of stock in addition to coconut milk is in no way authentic – it’s a Slater component – but I believe it improves the flavour to my western palate. I made it once for relatives in Singapore and their Filipino house maid’s eyes stared in horror. To stick with tradition, leave it out and increase the quantity of coconut milk accordingly.

In Thailand the curries are often made with their long beans. I would suggest using fine beans or French beans as a reasonably authentic substitute. Another vegetable that I find works quite well is pak choi.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 30 mins

Ingredients

  • ½ qty Thai red curry paste
  • sunflower oil
  • 4 chicken breasts cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 300ml coconut milk
  • 150ml homemade chicken stock
  • 200g fine beans/pak choi
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
  • 10g Thai basil leaves, chopped
  • 2 kaffir lime leaves (or grated zest of 1 lime)

Method

If you’re using fine beans, halve them. For pak choi, cut crosswise into, say, 1.5cm chunks.

In a little sunflower oil, briefly fry the curry paste over medium heat until fragrant. Stir in the chicken pieces to coat them in the paste and cook just to firm them up a little. Now stir in the liquids followed by your vegetable of choice. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally.

Chicken breast will overcook and dry out readily so be careful how long you cook it; 10-15 mins should be ample but test it. Once cooked stir in the basil leaves and adjust the seasoning. If it needs a little more salt use a splash more Thai fish sauce.

Serve with boiled Thai fragrant rice.


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Posted in Poultry, Untested Tagged with: ,

Thai Red Curry Paste

This is really just the red chilli version of the Thai Green Curry Paste. It’s a combination of a spice mix by for a Thai-style curry by Nigel Slater and Muoi Khuntilanont’s Kitchen. Muoi’s original uses 15-30 red birdseye chillis; good luck with that on a western palate. Here I use medium hot large red chillis beloved of our supermarkets. Heat can be adjusted by including and removing as many seeds and pith (the hot part) as you think fit.

This makes sufficient for two 4-person curries. Main ingredients spiced with this paste can vary according to preference, normally including a meat or fish component plus a vegetable. Red curry pastes work very well with tiger prawns, too, but put them in near the end of cooking.

Planning

serves:
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time:

Ingredients

  • 4 fresh lemongrass stalks
  • 8 medium-hot red chillies
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 5 cm piece fresh galangal or ginger, peeled and chopped
  • 2 shallots, peeled and chopped
  • 4 tbs fresh coriander stalks, chopped
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • zest and juice of 1 lime
  • 1 tbs Thai fish sauce
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper

Method

Remove any outer leaves of the lemongrass that are too coarse before slicing it quite finely. According to taste you can remove some of the seeds from the chillies (seeds and pith are the hot parts) prior to chopping them coarsely. Place the lemongrass and chillies, together with the other ingredients into a blender/food processor. Blitz this lot together, scraping down the sides regularly, until you have a thick paste. (You can add a little water to help slacken it if necessary.)

Cover and refrigerate this until you need it. It will keep for about a week in the fridge.


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Posted in Basics Tagged with: ,

Garden Peas à la JC

Fresh garden peas, in their all-too-brief season, are a complete delight. For a bit of variety over and above plain boiled peas (which are excellent), especially when the season is getting advanced and the peas are a little older, this is my version of the classic Petits Pois à la Française .

For those who would prefer the original, my variations are the initial light browning of the onion and the use of a light chicken stock instead of plain water. Adjust your methods accordingly.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 15 mins
cooking time: 15 mins

Ingredients

  • 30g butter
  • 1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced
  • 2 heads little gem lettuce, cored & coarsely shredded
  • 500g garden peas, weighed in pods then shelled
  • 250ml light chicken stock
  • beurre manié made with 15g butter & 1 tsp flour
  • salt & pepper

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When it is foaming, add the sliced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is evenly and lightly browned. Stir in the lettuce and peas and sweat them for a minute without browning. Pour in just enough light chicken stock to barely cover the peas, topping up with a little water if absolutely necessary. (We want just enough liquid to cook them, not to drown them.) Bring to boiling point then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Stir in the beurre manié to thicken the liquid slightly and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

Serve, preferably with a charcoal-roasted leg of lamb studded with rosemary and garlic.


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Posted in Veggies Tagged with:

Pots au Chocolat

Untried as yet, this one is from Waitrose Food Illustrated . Few peiople can resist a chocolate rush, though, so it should be good.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 20 mins
cooking time: 12 hrs

Ingredients

  • 200g plain chocolate (70%)
  • 50g salted butter
  • 100ml whole milk
  • 100ml double cream
  • 100g icing sugar, sieved
  • 2 egg yolks
  • zest of 1 orange, grated
  • 150g amaretti biscuits (optional)
  • 100ml brandy (optional)

Method

Over a medium heat, melt the chocolate and butter with the milk and cream, stirring until the mixture is smooth. Leave to cool for about 10 minutes before beating in the icing sugar, egg yolks and orange zest.

I think I’d leave it at that so I’ve documented the original recipe’s use of brandy-soaked amaretti biscuits as optional. If you want to stick to the script, proceed as follows. Break up the amaretti and divide half of them between 6 suitable serving glasses/coffee cups. Sprinkle over half the brandy. Now pour in enough chocolate to cover them and then repeat the process to add a second layer.

Alternatively, skip the brandy and amaretti and just pour the chocolate into 6 suitable serving glasses/coffee cups.

Either way, chill the pots in the fridge for 12 hours before serving.

 


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Posted in Desserts, Untested Tagged with:

Roast Pork Loin stuffed with Prunes

One to try from the childhood archives of the excellent monsieur Raymond Blanc courtesy of his mother, Maman Blanc. I might even try this in my good ol’ trusty Weber grill.

Planning

serves: 6
preparation time: 6 hrs
cooking time: 2 hrs

Ingredients

  • 24 Agen prunes, pitted
  • 6 tbs brandy
  • 1 – 1¼kg boneless pork loin with rind
  • 15g butter
  • 1 tbs oil
  • 1 large beef tomato, pricked all around with a fork
  • 200ml beef stock

Method

Soak the prunes in the brandy for 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4. Open up the loin of pork, flatten it and trim off the rind to leave 3mm of fat. Lay the pork fat-side down, season it and place 8-10 soaked prunes along the centre. Roll the loin up and secure it with string/skewers.

In a suitable roasting tray, heat the butter and oil on medium heat until the butter foams. Lightly brown the pork loin. Add the tomato, cover all loosely with foil and cook in the oven for 1½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven, wrap the pork in foil and place it on a plate to rest for 30 minutes.

Remove all but 2 tbs oil from the tray. Put the tray on high heat and deglaze it with the stock bringing it to the boil. Add the remaining prunes and heat through. Adjust the seasoning.

Carve the pork remembering to add any juices released by it to the sauce.


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Posted in Meat Tagged with:

Stuffed Tomatoes

Another from the childhood memories of monsieur Raymond Blanc. This seems to be tomatoes stuffed with what is essentially a vegetable risotto.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 40 mins
cooking time: 1 hr

Ingredients

  • Olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 4 ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
  • 100g tomato purée
  • ½ tsp sugar
  • 4 ripe large tomatoes (eg marmande or Jack Hawkins)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 20g butter
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 100g Carnaroli risotto rice
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 stick celery, thinly sliced
  • 1 courgette, thinly sliced
  • 30g peas
  • 2 tbs whipping cream
  • 85g Gruyère cheese, finely grated

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4.

First, make the tomato sauce. Put 3 tbs olive oil, one medium onion and the garlic into a pan and soften, without colouring, over a medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the 2 thyme sprigs, the chopped tomatoes and the tomato purée and cook for 7-8 minutes. Add 300ml water, season and cook for a further 5 minutes. Remove the thyme and check the seasoning; sweeten with the sugar only if necessary. Purée the sauce and set aside.

Slice a cap off each of the large tomatoes and scoop out the pulp and juices into a bowl.

Now make the rice stuffing. Soften the onion in the butter with the thyme leaves and bay leaf. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat the grains. Add 200ml water and 150g of the juices and chopped pulp from the tomatoes. Add the carrot and season. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally. Add the celery, courgette and peas together with a further 75ml water, then cook for another 15 minutes. Stir in the cream and Gruyère, check the seasoning and remove the bay leaf.

Fill each tomato with the stuffing and top each with a tomato cap. Place them on a baking dish and drizzle with a little olive oil before baking for 25 minutes. Serve them with the reheated tomato sauce.


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Posted in Starters Tagged with:

Gurnard with Nettle Butter

This is a little curiosity I came up with in Cornwall where the gurnard (red or grey, it matters not) are usually excellent. We’d taken to travelling to Cornwall in the spring when the stinging nettles are at their prime, too. The taste of stinging nettles with a touch of good ol’ garlic compliments the gurnard very well indeed. For complete Cornish authenticity, if you are lucky enough to have a local supply, use Cornish wild garlic, too.

A 1 kg gurnard (weighed whole) will serve two admirably. (There’s quite a bit of wasted weight ‘cos gurnards have a large head.) If the fish are smaller, use one each.

Maybe I should commend this recipe to Mr Stein. 🙂

Planning

serves: 2
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 10 mins

Ingredients

  • 2 (gloved!) handfuls nettle tops
  • 2 large or 4 smaller gurnard fillets
  • salt & pepper
  • 75g butter
  • 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped

Method

First, with a gloved hand, pick only the fresh, young tops of the nettles. Remove the leaves from the stems and wash them. Blanch the leaves in boiling water for 10 – 15 seconds then drain and refresh them in cold water to arrest their cooking. They are now safe to handle without the gloves. Drain the leaves once again, gently squeeze out excess moisture and dry them as best you can in a clean kitchen towel. Roughly chop the leaves and set them aside.

Melt the butter over medium heat in a frying pan large enough to hold the gurnard fillets. Season the fillets well with salt and pepper, and, when the foam subsides, add them to the frying pan. Cook the fillets for 2 – 3 minutes on each side, depending upon their thickness, turning once. Remove the gurnard fillets to warmed serving plates while you finish the nettle butter.

Stir the chopped garlic and nettles into the butter and cooking juices. Fry these gently for a minute or two before spooning the mixture over and around the gurnard fillets.

(Some boiled new potatoes – though it’s probably a bit too early for Jersey Royals – and tenderstem broccoli would be perfect accompaniments.)


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Merluza a la Plancha

The Spanish love their hake. Actually, they love our hake, which they’ve been pinching for years. I’d spent a frustrating but amusing afternoon looking for Spanish Merluza a la Plancha recipes on the internet. The amusement stemmed from the absolutely dreadful automated browser translations offered of Spanish language pages. There’s clearly something about Spanish that makes it harder to translate mechanically than French, which seems to get a half-way reasonable job done. In between the tears of laughter, it was enough, however, to give me the basic idea. This is my attempt at what seems to me to be the essence of the dish.

Planning

serves: 4
preparation time: 10 mins
cooking time: 6-8 mins

Ingredients

  • 4 hake steaks, ~2½cms thick
  • salt & pepper
  • olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, finely sliced
  • 2 tbs fresh parsley, chopped
  • juice of a lemon

Method

Immediately before you are ready to cook, sprinkle the hake steaks with a little lemon juice, then season them with salt and pepper. (Avoid salting it too soon because it draws the juices out of the fish.) Sprinkle a little of the parsley – about a quarter in all – on both sides of each hake steak, too.

On gentle heat, heat a little olive oil in a skillet (preferably black iron) or, if you have one a flat griddle. Toss in the garlic and stir it around until it begins to colour, then remove it with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat to moderate and put in the hake steaks. Cook the steaks for 3-4 minutes on each side – you want them to take on a light golden brown colour. Remove the hake to warmed serving plates.

Add the remaining parsley and lemon juice to the pan (you may need a little more olive oil, too). Stir this around briefly, scraping any tasty bits into the juice and pour it over the hake steaks.

This works well with the Spring Vegetables recipe and some oven-roasted vine cherry tomatoes. New potatoes with olive oil don’t go amiss, either.


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Posted in Fish Tagged with: