Benissa Market

Yet another cloudless morning but wait, what’s this – a frost!? I’d heard Chris say that Spain had been described as a cold country with a hot sun and here it is. The floor of the valley at Jalon is about 300 metres so maybe the altitude has something to do with it. It is also, we’re told, something of a frost pocket, being completely surrounded by higher ground.

Our legs were feeling a tad weary after our assaults on the Sierra Bernia and the Peñón de Ifach so we were looking forward to a slightly lazier day. Saturday morning is market time in nearby Benissa so, after things had warmed up a little, we drove in to buy some alcachofas (artichokes), which seem to be reasonably plentiful and reasonably priced compared to home, together with a few other supplies. There was also an irresistible cafe with tables on the sunny side of the square so coffee was in order before returning for lunch on the veranda (I can’t find out how to spell the Spanish word for it).

In the afternoon we walked el perrito through Jalon to the other side of the valley and up to our neighbour’s house just to check on things. We were trying to tire the little devil out so we could get some peace and quiet. It may have worked ‘cos he’s now sitting on Carol’s lap while she tries to knit around him.

Up the Peñón de Ifach

Yet another cloudless morning dawned after a lengthened night listening the blasted dog next door again. Despite having aching thigh muscles from yesterday’s walk around the Sierra Bernia and being a little shorter of sleep than we might like, we decided to make the most of the weather and try to do the ascent of the Peñón de Ifach, the 332 metre high Gibraltar-like rock that overlooks Calpe.

We drove down and parked near Calpe harbour and started up the path at about 11:15 AM. The route begins gently enough with a smooth, path and handrails. There were quite a few elderly people walking up so I thought we were in for something quite tame. Eventually, this leads to yet another tunnel, this time tall enough to walk through without crouching, to the seaward side of the rock. This is where the fun begins as the paving disappears and the path becomes a very rough scramble over smooth, shiny rock polished by the shoes of countless previous visitors. So much for thinking it would be tame. (I think the elderly contingent walk to the tunnel and then wander down again.)

There are two paths here to take; one leads to a viewpoint at the most easterly point of the rock, the other is the ascent to the top towering above Calpe. The path up to the summit is a hands-and-feet scramble/climb in a few places and doesn’t seem to be for the faint-hearted. It’s best not to look down. Since the footing is a little precarious, it’s also best to stop before looking anywhere other than at your feet. Once at the top, however, the views were impressive and it was well worth the effort. Certainly, the two cats we discovered at the very top seemed to appreciate it.

After some obligatory photos, it was time to brave the decent with our thighs beginning to yelp after this on top of yesterday’s effort. We were grateful for our Leki walking poles which made us feel a bit more secure.

We reached the bottom at about 2:45 PM and popped into Calpe’s bright new Mercadona supermercado before returning to to take Scamp, el perrito, for a swift wander into Jalon for yet more exercise.

Around the Bernia

Another cloudless sky greeted us this morning so we decided to get our act together and try for the circumperambulation of the Bernia. The Bernia is a v. large lump of rock, about the height of Snowdon, to the south of the Jalon Valley overlooking Altea and, in the distance, Benidorm (which we try hard to ignore). Depending upon the source, the path around it is either eight or nine kilometers. We drove up to the start point, the roads being unencumbered by lorries today, at about 10:30 AM and started the walk at 11:00 AM going clockwise.

The path starts on the north side as something resembling a road but eventually gets quite steep and narrow as you climb to cross to the south side. Crossing to the south side is quite amazing; the path goes through a tunnel, only three feet high in places, carved through the mountain to emerge overlooking the sunlit Mediterranean, Altea and, yes, Benidorm in the distance.  We had to remove our camera rucksacks to get through. It’s a stunning view from the end of the tunnel despite Benidorm.

We were making grand progress on the south side until, about half way round, we took a wrong turn up to the wrong saddle (knowing that we had to cross a saddle). We were on a treacherous scree slope which should have been a clue but carried on regardless. At the top it became obvious that all was not as it should be and we had to descend the same scree slope, which was even more treacherous, to correct our mistake.

There were a couple more oh-my-God-where’s-the-path moments but we eventually managed to return unscathed after five hours (it would have been four without the scree slope detour) to the start point and car, still basking under a cloudless blue sky.

A swift trip to the Masymas supermercat on the way home to get something for dinner (a monkfish tail to go with those pink peppercorns) and we could release el perrito from his prison.

A sense of achievement prevails after what must be the roughest walk we’ve undertaken. What a great day; all is well. 🙂

Lunch in Calpe

Last night and today, one of the neighbour’s dogs was been barking almost incessantly but I think we got some sleep, eventually. I may have to go and kill it. What a way to end up in a Spanish prison. Maybe the owner has pegged out and it’s hungry?

Anyway, this morning dawned to brilliant sunshine and, after a lazy morning, we tried to get up the Bernia (a mountain behind the house). However, both roads that we knew led up there were blocked by lorries, so that didn’t work. Undaunted, we changed direction and went to Calpe to have a spot of calamari and chipitos (baby octopus, I think) for lunch. After a walk up part of Calpe rock, we found the new supermarket and got yet more seafood for tonight’s dinner – tellinas which are small bivalves rather like cockles but a slightly different shape. I’ll whip these up simply with some garlic and parsley on fine spaghetti.

Home alone

Yesterday morning was an early(ish) start to take Chris and Yvonne to Alicante airport for their flight to the UK on the first leg of their journey to Barbados for their cruise. A slightly tentative journey of about 90 minutes while I tried to get used to a strange car, again with its owner sitting in the passenger seat. After messing with the rush hour around Alicante, we dropped them off in plenty of time and were cut loose to negotiate the return journey alone.

Tuesday is market day in Jalon, so, having managed to find our way back successfully, we wandered into the market to do some shopping. There were some good looking alcachofas (artichokes) which, along with some conejo (rabbit) and langostinos (prawns –  a tad disappointing), were screaming paella. Some of our shopping came from a new Masymas supermercat that has recently opened in Jalon. Naturally, we also needed a couple of litres of vino rosado from the local cooperativo to wash everything down.

After lunch in the sun, our afternoon was mainly house chores with a shortish walk to try to give el perrito some exercise and keep him happy. We managed to raid some pink peppercorns from a tree en route. Now we need to find some monkfish. 🙂

Orientation

Yesterday was really an orientation day and a refresher course in how to look after the house complete with small dog (which is now sitting on my lap between me and the keyboard as I try to type). Apparently, our favourite supermercado in Benissa is currently shut for renovations so we’re going to have to get used to something else. It shouldn’t be too difficult as there is a new, bigger one in nearby Calpe.

Chris walked us into Jalon where we managed to get some money out of a hole in the wall. We had tried to get some from the Post Office at home before leaving but arrived at 4:00 PM precisely – just as the doors were being locked. T’riffic! We also managed to take el perrito for a walk in the afternoon without getting him killed either by traffic or other perritos. So far so good.

Later in the afternoon, since Chris and Yvonne were frantically packing for their West Indies trip, Carol and I managed to volunteer ourselves for galley duties which is a tad scarey in someone else’s kitchen with strange equipment under the watchful eyes of the owners. All seemed to go well, however, and food was eventually gratefully received.

A relatively early night was deemed appropriate as we were to be up and off early in the morning to get Chris and Yvonne to Alicante airport for their departing flight to the UK.

Spain, here we come

A 5:00 AM alarm awoke us rudely for our planned 8:00 AM easyJet departure from Luton airport to Alicante. Unfortunately, the previous crew had apparently left a switch on in the flight deck of the Boeing 737 which now had a flat battery so we all had to get out and push. Eventually after some frenetic recharging work, we managed to get under way about an hour late and arrived in Alicante at 12:10 PM under blue skies and glorious sunshine.

Chris met us at the airport and ferried us on to the Jalon valley where we were reunited with Yvonne and Scamp (el perrito). We were here in February for two weeks to look after Chris and Yvonne’s house and dog, and are now back for a repeat engagement while they cruise around a few West Indian islands. It’s a lousy job but someone has to do it.

The day finished with a traditional Spanish dinner of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding washed down with some vino. Doubtless, we will also be renewing our acquaintance with the local Jalon wine cooperative over the coming days. I may have to buy some gin, too, just to make sure that the lemons in the orchard are up to scratch.

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