Stiff Upper Lips

There was yet more wind-assisted rain forecast for this afternoon but the morning was quite pleasant in a grey sort of way. So, rather than waste part of the morning driving too far, we chose to explore a close stretch of the coastal path between Pentire Point and Port Quin. We took our waterproofs and, this time, I took my boots. 😉

I’m never quite sure whether to be impressed or frustrated at what seems to be a typical British over-optimistic assessment of our weather. I think on the whole I verge towards frustration. Having lulled us into a false sense of security by allowing us to begin our trip with four or five very pleasant, essentially sunny, days, nature has more recently been making us pay, and pay dearly. We began paying with “cyclonic” winds battering us with rain for the best part of 24 hours and have continued paying with what will have been at least five subsequent days featuring various quantities of rain, several of which were large. Oh, and let’s not forget the hail.

With this background, we began our walk and soon met a couple on the coastal path. As I eyed the approaching solid dark mass of cloud in the west that would bring this afternoon’s rain, they greeted us with a cheery, “lovely day”. “Well, so far it’s OK”, I reluctantly allowed. “It’s nice at the moment”, amended the lady. Nice?

Primroses2Further along our walk, what turned out to be an advanced guard of the advertised band of rain began spitting at us. We met another couple. “Isn’t it beautiful?”, said the lady of the couple as sporadic rain spots splashed on my unprotected head. Really, this ridiculous over-generosity was just more than I could take. “It might be alright without the rain”, I retorted. “But the primroses are so lovely, don’t you think?”, she tried. Ye Gods! “Yes, indeed the primroses are lovely; all the spring flowers are an absolute delight”, I agreed, thinking that it was little short of a miracle that any delightful spring flowers remained after the severe battering they must have sustained from Mother Nature over the previous week.

Is it a mark of just how bad our British weather is that people assess a grey day with approaching storm clouds as “lovely” or “beautiful”? The light may be flat and unscintillating doing nothing to flatter nature but it’s “beautiful”. Are we that undiscerning? It seems to be a lovely or beautiful day if it isn’t actually raining at the moment.

What a complete crock! A lovely or beautiful day is one in which the sky is essentially blue rather than grey. There may be a few fluffy white clouds to break what some (not me) could regard as the blue monotony but no more. It is one in which the sun shines more often than not producing golden light which enhances the colours of nature making them glow and sparkle. Birdsong should be audible above nothing stronger than a moderate breeze. It is a day on which I can wear something less than a fleece and not have to carry my waterproof. That’s a beautiful day.

Carol at the mouth of Port Quin The morning was acceptable and our walk was very enjoyable. The rain spots ceased and the main rain held off until we had returned. It has now been raining for the last four hours and looks set to continue into the night.

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Booted Out

We seemed to be in for an OK day in that only showers, some heavy or thundery, had been forecast. Treats! We headed for Bedruthen Steps (Carnowas) to go, “ooh, ah” at the rock formations and to walk south on the coastal path, perhaps as far as Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant at Watergate Bay – just for coffee, don’t get excited.

Not long after leaving our field, I had an uncomfortable feeling that I had not packed any walking socks but Carol said she’d seen some in my boot bag. We continued to Bedruthen and arrived under some very dark clouds. I opened the car’s boot. The car’s boot contained only two boots whereas it should have contained four boots. Only Carol actually had boots. Never mind not grabbing socks, I hadn’t even put my boots in the boot; they were still back at our field. I was firmly booted out of our coastal path walkers club.

I slipped on an old pair of trainers (without socks!) to go and have a look at Bedruthen Steps but the large black clouds soon started discharging their obviously large load of rain and we were fairly quickly very wet.

We went to have a look at Padstow instead.

This weather sucks and Mr. Forgetful wasn’t helping. 🙁

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Apples and Pears

After a final night at Looe disturbed by further generous helpings of wind and rain, we breathed a small sigh of relief when a respite in the weather arrived just after breakfast. We were moving on to one of our favourite fields just outside St. Minver Lowlands near Rock and packing and hitching up in inclement conditions is far from being an enjoyable experience. We almost made it. With pretty much everything and as it became time to hitch up, a vary large and very black cloud decided that our Looe total weather experience would be incomplete without the final thrill of a hearty hail storm. We waited it out sitting in the car, finally got the towing mirrors on and set off on yet another strenuous 40 miles or so.

We were looking forward to Rock. Not only would we have grass instead of a gravel hard-standing but, after our communication-free six days at Looe, we knew of a pub near Polzeath that had sold a fine pint of Cornish Rattler (cider) and provided free wifi – what a civilized combination. As a result of the severe weather suffered particularly by northern Cornwall last weekend, the grass in our longed-for field was decidedly squidgy underfoot but it was grass nonetheless and we soon had Billy Bailey installed without any traction problems.

Apart from the weather, all was well with the world. We arrived at Carters, the aforementioned pub, and found free wifi together with not one but two Cornish Rattlers; the original apple Rattler had been joined by pear Rattler. The nice barkeep provided me with their wifi key and a small sample of the pear cider which proved a bit sweet for my taste, though Carol liked it.

Subsequently, a jaunt around a local well-known supermarket revealed a few cider companies now producing pear cider. In my now distant youth I recall a drink that rejoiced under the name of Babycham, a so-called champagne perry, that was marketed at the ladies and was sold in very small bottles. (Well, we wouldn’t want to get the ladies tipsy now, would we?) I’m pretty sure that was a fizzy pear concoction. Maybe all this pear cider is a rebranded Babycham revival. A pint or two of pear Rattler should certainly get the ladies relaxed. 😉

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Campsite Psychology

Carol and I spent many happy years camping variously in France, Germany, Switzerland or Austria during the height of the season. Our timing was in large part dictated by the fact that, though we ourselves were unencumbered by rugrats, we frequently travelled with close friends who were encumbered by rugrats. So, we got quite used to campsites that were approaching capacity and therefore always having neighbouring pitches occupied.

When we did more solo travelling, we deliberately avoided rugrat season and went to France typically for the first two or three weeks of September after the main rush had ended. We became accustomed to visiting camp sites that were less than half full and really enjoyed the extra space. Now, happy in retirement, we tend to go to France for six weeks encompassing June and have become thoroughly wedded to half empty sites with almost too much choice as to pitch selection. Whilst we are basically sociable creatures and generally enjoy friendly interactions with fellow campers, we also value privacy and seclusion and typically strive to choose a pitch that puts as much space as possible between ourselves and any immediate neighbours.

It has always struck us as odd, therefore, when on occasions we’ve watched new arrivals who seem to enjoy creating a crowd; folks who appear to shun relatively sparsely populated sections of a site and seem inexorably drawn into close proximity with others. Are they perhaps looking for security in numbers?

Such was the case today. Having first cleaned our car and caravan of all the cherry blossom stripped from the surrounding trees by yesterday’s gales, we drove out to investigate the Torpoint peninsula. Upon our return we noticed a new arrival. Behind us are two rows of ten and eight pitches each, a mere four of which were occupied. Opposite us is another file of seven pitches, none of which were occupied. Where was the new arrival? Directly between ourselves and our erstwhile nearest neighbour two pitches away. You have to have worked really hard to find a pitch on this site with two immediate neighbours but these folks had valiantly succeeded. It’s not as though their chosen pitch has a particularly great aspect, either – they have artfully treated themselves to a view of the roof of les sanitaires (the facilities block).

It’s not a problem, the spaces here are reasonably generous so nobody is exactly crowded. I just don’t understand the mentality. Why would anyone ignore strings of empty pitches in favour of plonking themselves directly between two others? Weird!

Oh, and it’s pissing with rain again. 🙁

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Wash Out

A depression lurking off the north Cornwall coast eventually delivered the promised bad weather after dark yesterday and we had a slightly disturbed night punctuated by heavy spells of rain hammering on Billy Bailey’s roof. By this morning, the wind had increased and was gusting up towards gale force. We are in an exposed position atop a hill and Billy shook and rattled on his stays as the gusts slammed into his windward side. Some of the wind bled in through the fridge vents, which unfortunately faced into the wind, and caused some cooling draughts inside. In particularly strong gusts, our roof vent rattled even though it was as firmly shut as possible. Things were worse on the north coast where a car had been inundated at Zenner and some poor folks had been washed away by a flash flood.

Wifi here is also proving to be a wash out. We are in a McDonalds and, therefore, a McWiFi black spot. We had vainly searched Liskeard, our nearest decent-sized town, yesterday but all to no avail. The Caravan Club site’s telephone book subsequently suggested that the nearest McWiFi is 20 miles away in St. Austell. The Caravan Club’s site itself has wifi but I refuse to pay anybody £5 an hour for the privilege. It’s also “invisible” from our pitch. The neighbouring Tregoad campsite has a considerably more distant but surprisingly “visible” wifi to which our laptop occasionally claims to have connected but it isn’t open so we’ve had no joy on the piracy stakes there, either.

The wind persisted all day but the lashing rain was more intermittent. During one intermission we ventured out on foot to a neighbouring farm shop which reputedly possessed a cafe complete with an Internet connection. Here, the espresso was disappointingly mediocre and two people tried, without success, to provide us with the relevant security information to hook into their BT Homehub wifi connection. I was also somewhat bemused as to why the signal strength was a paltry 50% when we were sitting no more than three feet away from their router. After failing to connect twice, we gave up and returned to sit out the storm.

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Looe to Seaton

After five dry and mostly sunny days, the weather forecasters had finally begun promising a collapse in our weather. Sometime in the afternoon, a nasty low pressure system hovering somewhere near Cornwall was going to bring wind and rain. However, the morning dawned sunny so we thought we’d make the most of it while we could by walking east along the coastal path from Looe to Seaton. Starting at our camp site, this would be another round trip of about 7 miles.

Joining the coastal path at Millendreath, we received something of a shock. We can’t remember seeing such a depressed and depressing looking place. A so-called holiday village clung to one hillside but looked more like a prison camp than anything else. Right down by the beach, what seemed to be the only two commercial properties around had been boarded up so presumably the inmates of the holiday village couldn’t have been enough to support businesses. The few private houses on the opposite hillside were littered with cars and vans in various states of disrepair inventively blocked up on wood, bricks, tyres – anything but jacks or axle stands, really. Even the car parking areas looked derelict. We were at a loss to see why a generally sheltered south-facing bay such as this should have suffered such a fate.

Spring colour Comforting Public Footpath sign Undaunted, we continued to the coastal path which proved more strenuous than expected by being something of a roller-coaster of a route. I lost count of the number of ascents and descents we made. The atmosphere was incredibly hazy so our cameras were more or less along as baggage just to make the ascents more challenging. The route was otherwise unspectacular with the coast often hidden from view, though it did pass through some pleasant wooded areas or by the occasional splash of colourful spring wild flowers. Having been on the coastal path for a mile or so and with no junctions in sight, it was particularly reassuring to see a completely superfluous “public footpath” sign where there was no possibility of deviation. How thoughtful of someone.

Seaton restored our faith in Cornish bays. Here, in stark contrast to Millendreath, was somewhere that was loved and tended with cared-for property and kempt lawns. I could have murdered a pint after all our wandering up and down and there was, indeed, a pub but with traditional bad timing we had arrived before midday so salvation was not yet available. There was, though, a pleasant enough cafe with tables overlooking the beach and surf so we opted for some coffee.  We’d have opted for a Cornish pasty, too, but it transpired that we had stumbled across the only cafe on the Cornish coastal path that didn’t actually sell pasties. Fortunately, Seaton also had a more appropriately stocked corner shop to correct the deplorable oversight.

We simplified our route back by sticking to a country lane with a single long climb up followed by the associated single long descent. We couldn’t avoid a second trip through Millendreath, though.

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Looe to Polperro

Time to go and investigate properly the retail fish shop that we had found yesterday. Rather than face the long dragging walk back up the steep hill from Looe, we elected to drive and save our poor legs for the stretch of coastal path between Looe and Polperro.

The fish shop lived up to expectations in that it had what appeared to be spankingly fresh local fish mixed, of course, with the obligatory farmed salmon and increasingly rare long-distance imports such as cod and haddock of indeterminate age (no eyes, no gills – how can you tell?). The star turns here were glistening, bright-eyed lemon sole and John Dory. The down side was that the lemon sole seemed incredibly expensive: £17.98 per kilo. OK, they were as fresh as they come and considerably larger specimens (with proportionately less waste) than can be bought in supermarkets away from the coast but these had travelled just a few yards, in all probability. Why the doubling in price? The cost of being a gastronaut, I suppose. Lemon sole it was. Oh, and a few local Cornish new potatoes should round off the feast nicely.

Heading for Polperro Polperro HarbourWe returned with our purchases and drove out to a National Trust area just west of Looe to park and walk the 3½ miles or so along the coastal path to Polperro. We’d never seen Polperro before but it has an enviable reputation as one of Cornwall’s most picturesque villages. The misty morning seemed to be clearing nicely as we made our way up, down and along the path. Unfortunately, nobody had informed Polperro that the weather was clearing and, as we approached, it seemed to become stubbornly shrouded in a coastal mist, complete with attendant dull, featureless sky. It was clearly an attractive place, nonetheless, but could have been so much more appealing in better conditions.

The mist continued to close in as we retraced our steps back to our start point and, after the final killing slog up hill back to the car, we were quite relieved to complete the 7 mile round trip.

The lemon sole and Cornish potatoes were an excellent well deserved reward.

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Trip to (the) Looe

(Well, what did you expect?)

A trip of an extravagant 48 miles, to be precise. Since time was not pressing, we first popped into Newton Abbot to do some shopping at a pleasant enough Sainsbury’s supermarket. Apart from being “a considerably more pleasant shopping experience” than the Newton Abbot very drab and oddly arranged Tesco store (the plastic bread is at the opposite end of the store to the real bread), it had the irresistible advantage of being right next door to a McDonalds with McWiFi. After shopping I sauntered in to McDonalds and ordered two espressos while Carol went to sit down and connect. “We don’t do espressos”, I was informed by the McCheerless McAssistant, “only cappuccinos, white or black”. “I can’t work out how you don’t do espressos when a cappuccino is a shot of espresso with frothed milk”, I ventured. Stony silence from McCheerless. I surrendered. “One cappuccino and one white, please”. French McDonalds do espressos, darn it.

We returned, hitched up, bad fond farewells to my newly met relatives, Mr and Mrs D. Curd, and to a quite pleasant Stover Caravan Club site. The 48 miles to Looe took us over the Tamar toll bridge which, to our surprise, was free heading west and we checked in to the Looe Caravan Club site after an easy hour driving. Fortunately, no other Curds were expected at this site so our bill was right first time. Either the Caravan Club requires its wardens to have had a charisma bypass or they’ve mostly done stints at McDonalds as part of their customer service training. Whatever, we drove around the half of the site which was open, the hard-standing, enviously eyeing-up the closed grassy half of the site. We selected a grey, gravelly hard-standing spot and pitched up. The hard-standing may be very useful in winter but the grey gravel and tarmac drives tend to give the site a bit of a charisma bypass, too. You can’t beat a bit of cheerily green grass for character.

Looe Looe is at the bottom of the very same long and quite steep hill that is topped by the Looe Caravan Club site. After lunch we wandered down for our first explore, dreading the climb back up. Looe is home to a large wholesale fish market but seems to be a little short of retail fish suppliers; we found only one but marked it as somewhere to visit again, probably tomorrow. We probably won’t be up early enough to observe the wholesale fish market in full cry.

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Unrelated Ramblings

Three sunny days in a row, what was going on? Sunny as it may have been, today was Carol’s last chance to visit the Exeter records office and investigate not one but TWO other peoples’ families. So, at 8:30 AM off Carol set for the 18 mile journey back to the relevant part of Exeter. Carol arrived at the records office just after 9:00 AM.The records office opened at 10:00 AM. Whoops! The lazy so-and-sos.

Those of us not so keen on investigating unrelated skeletons had planned a walking day. The Stover camp site is very pleasantly situated next to a wildlife lake which forms the start and end points of a 4 mile circular walk called the Heritage Trail. The Heritage Trail intersects with a longer distance path known as Templer Way, presumably to do with the fact that historically the area was within the 80,000 acre Stover estate owned by one James Templer.

DuckFamily The Heritage Trail took about an hour and a half, some of which was spent watching very energetic sand martins swooping around their sand bank nests on the bend of the local river. Unfortunately, they were much to fast for my trigger finger. I had much more success with a duck and her family of nine ducklings who didn’t seem to mind posing for the camera. A round trip detour of about a mile up to the old gatehouse of the estate and back proved disappointing so I consoled myself with lunch by the lake watching the ducks and grebes.

Brimstone After lunch, there was life in the old legs yet so I set off on the Templer Way up towards Bovey Tracey where I planned to slake my thirst with a pint before returning. While I was stalking brimstome butterflies, however, I managed to miss a right turn and inadvertently left the Templer Way altogether. I was put back on track by a friendly lady with a muddy spaniel (who had scared most of my brimstones) and eventually rejoined the Templer Way to arrive in Bovey Tracey. Not only had I missed a Templer Way sign, but now I was in Bovey Tracey I was seriously short of pub signs, too. Pubs were there none – at least, none that I could see without adding a further two miles to an already long day. Curses! A little disheartened, I slugged some water and set about my return trip, this time managing to follow the signs and stick faithfully to the Templer Way.

After about five and a half hours and a total of about 11 miles walking, my first beer back at Billy was going down extremely well when Carol returned just a few minutes after me with an awful lot of names and dates for other peoples’ relatives. Who needs pubs, anyway? My second beer went down equally well.

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Strained Relations

The sun continued to shine this morning so, rather than waste a perfectly wonderful day in dusty records, Carol wanted to investigate Shaldon at the mouth of the river Teign, opposite Teignmouth, in fact. I now define genealogical addiction as wanting to investigate someone else’s family. In this case the family in question was that of the husband of a cousin. Still, it’s a harmless excuse to go somewhere.

Arriving in Shaldon and spotting lots of double yellow lines, we first opted for a car park and scraped together the ÂŁ1.50 with our shopping trolley pound coin from the car. The pound coin looked a bit odd to me. It clearly felt a bit odd to the ticket machine, too, which promptly rejected it. No more change – foiled! We drove off and happened across some free one hour parking spots in town. Sometimes fake money can be an advantage.

SeagullBarney2 SeagullBarney1 There must be something about the Devon diet or air that makes birds particularly argumentative. Yesterday we watched a mute swan tirelessly hounding a pair of Canada geese on Stover Lake. Today, having parked the car, it was seagulls apparently locked in mortal combat. Seagulls are argumentative at the best of times but we’d never seen anything like this before. These two had each other fast by the beak and would not let go for anything. Locked together, they struggled along a stretch of pavement (that’s the pedestrian bit for the benefit of Amerispeakers), jumping, tugging, flapping, straying into the road (pavement, for Amerispeakers), stopping traffic – one car actually bumped one of the birds – and still they remained firmly attached. Blood appeared to have been drawn. The locals had not seen the like before, either; everyone stopped to watch. Whatever the argument was about (sex or food, I imagine) it lasted a full 10 minutes but eventually they parted and flew off, one still chasing the other.

We found a pub in which Carol thought her non-relative may have been born. The pub was called the Shipwright’s Arms. The pub sign was on the road. The pub wasn’t on the road. The pub was tucked down an alley in the direction of the river. The pub wasn’t actually on the river, either. The pub was, well, nowhere, really. The pub was also closed on Mondays. Go figure.

Leaving Shaldon, we came across another car park along the cliffs to the south. Furthermore, we found the required genuine 60p so we  parked, donned our boots and walked along the very hilly coastal path back towards Shaldon. Carol narrowly managed to avoid stepping on a very small, basking adder which squirmed off safely into deeper vegetation. Stumbling across our island’s only poisonous creature is always a thrill – and a reminder of why walking boots are more appropriate footwear than sandals.

At the end of our walk we found an open pub which, to my delight, was a Hall and Woodhouse house selling their wonderful Tanglefoot brew. I was less delighted when I was informed that they sold neither crisps (chips, for Amerispeakers) nor peanuts. “We do sell fries, though”. Ah ha, a sneaky ploy to make more money than you would from crisps and peanuts, I thought, cynically. “Fries”, I said, rather less cynically, “do you mean chips?”. Oh, I give up. The beer was great and so were the chips/fries and garlic mayonnaise.

We returned and I had a brief chat with Mr and Mrs D. Curd. We are distantly related, after all.

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