“On the Lam” to France (again)

Camping les brugues, Fanjeaux One of the highlights of our ambition-realizing first-year-of-retirement 6-week trip to France in spring/early summer, 2006, was our discovery of what we consider to be the finest campsite we know. We found ourselves on a small (25 pitches) camping à la ferme site called Camping les Brugues just outside Fanjeaux, a little south of Carcassonne. The total site may be small but some of the pitches are very large, about 300 m². The site borders a small lake surrounded by farm fields about 1km from the farm house. The lake teems with wildlife.

Luc's dairy ewes The farm is a dairy sheep farm run by a delightful couple, Luc and Nadine Vialaret, who make visitors feel very welcome, often by inviting you to their house for snacks and drinks. In addition to crops, Luc has 320 ewes (apparently 320 is his quota) the milk from which goes to make Roquefort cheese. When it’s milking season, Luc takes groups of interested visitors to demonstrate the milking process. If you’re really lucky, he’ll squirt warm milk straight from a sheep’s udder into your mouth. Yum! Definitely unpasteurized.

We liked the place so much that we revisited in 2007, not once but twice. During one of our stays Luc said that we could go and help with lambing which apparently occurs in November. “But your campsite is closed”, I said. “That’s OK, we have a room – you work, I feed you”, smirked Luc. Yeah, yeah!

We didn’t get that far south in 2008 ‘cos the weather never settled; we headed to the west coast instead to find what little settled weather existed.

This year we visited France in September and had stunning weather. We set out for the southeast and then made our way west along the southern part of France to the Languedoc where, almost inevitably, we ended up once again at Luc and Nadine’s blissful farm near Fanjeaux. After two years, one of the first things Luc said when he greeted us was, “we waited for you to help with the lambing but you didn’t come”. Yeah, yeah! Luc also remembered that we’d been taking photographs around his farm and asked for copies of our pictures. I said I’d send him a disk soon after we returned home.

Once back at home I duly compiled all our photographs from various visits to Luc and Nadine’s farm, made a DVD and mailed it to them together with a covering email. It arrived safely, was well received and back came an email from Luc:

… we have a spare room and if you would like to visit to help during lambing time …
… best time would be between 24th November to 12th December …
… we’d pick you up from Carcassonne airport …
… we’d like you to see our region in the winter…

Foreigners are going to deliver my baby??Gulp! He was serious!

What an experience it would be to help (more like hinder) on a French farm during lambing time. How could we refuse such an offer? It’ll be hard work, I’m sure, but very different. Besides, we’ve been at home too long so we’ll be off to get messy with the ewes and lambs from about 25th November for a week or so. We’ll probably drive ‘cos I can get the ferry with air miles.

Yikes! Excitement!! 🙂

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Having ha Hlaugh

When we started house-sitting for friends in Spain, since I had absolutely no Spanish, I downloaded a podcast called Coffee Break Spanish to my iPod. I didn’t make huge progress but at least I learned some basic pleasantries and some numbers, all of which helped in the local markets. I’d like to do better and should find the time to do more.

Having discovered podcasts, Carol decided to improve her French. In addition to Coffee Break French (I think the Coffee Break series from Radio Lingua Network is very good), she pointed me at a French series called Learn French by Podcast. I tried it for the first time yesterday.

One of the topics covered in the lesson I chose – I think it was lesson 2 – was the fact that an “h” at the beginning of French a word is always silent.  Repetition is said to be a good thing, I know, but this guy’s explanations began to drive me nuts. Bearing in mind that this is an audio device, phoenetically, all his explanations went something like this:

The haitch on the front of French words is always silent; it is a mute haitch.

Arghh! How can someone unashamedly bang on about a French mute “h” (I think I’d have referred to it as a non-aspirant “h”) when he insists on sticking a pronounced “h” (an aspirant “h”) onto the front of a word that doesn’t actually start with one at all? The name of the letter “h” in English is “aitch”. If he can grasp this concept in French, why hasn’t he grasped it in English?

Aitch does not start with an aitch, though a disturbing number of people seem to labour under the misapprehension that the name of a letter must begin with that letter itself. Maybe they don’t realize that letters have names with spellings? In day to day English listening to people saying “haitch” drives me to distraction but in a language lesson it’s unforgivable.

The French was good, though, so I’ll give more lessons a try.

A Great Leveller

ProjectPatio About 9 or 10 years ago we invested in a conservatory and extended our patio so we could better enjoy our back garden which overlooks woodland. Since our back garden slopes away at an angle of about 25°, extending the patio required a retaining wall which, in turn needed back-filling to build up the ground level. Unfortunately for the contractors, they had to barrow the filling material around manually. Unfortunately for me, the contractors didn’t use a compacting plate on the filling material. Over the years usage and gravity have done their work and compacted it for me; the patio paving slabs had subsided by up to 2ins/5cms in a couple of places. Time to try and level it.

The patio is a “random” pattern of three sizes of slabs. It’s like a jig-saw and, realizing that there was no way I’d get it all back together correctly without a map, I had made one about a year ago when I first thought I needed to fix the dips. Everything left of the white line in my diagram had subsided and needed levelling. Incidentally, the right of the white line has a more solid base: the old original patio.

On Thursday I bought 20 x 25kg bags of sharp sand to put under the slabs and build the level back up. The quantity was a complete guess based upon the fact that, if I bought 20 bags, I got a reduction on the price. Lifting that 500kg load four times in all – pallet to trolley, trolley to car (the car groaned), car to garage and garage to patio – was definitely good exercise (I groaned). Thursday remained dry and, in addition to transporting the sand, I lifted and levelled about a third of the slabs.

The low point of Thursday was when I realized that an innocuous-looking plant had rooted itself in the retaining wall and grown well. Closer inspection revealed that its roots had also grown and thickened, lifting the top course of bricks on the retaining wall over a length of about 8 feet. It’s amazing how much damage can be done by a small flowering plant.

Friday remained dry but things were about change, apparently. I got an early start and finished lifting and levelling the remaining subsided slabs. At least now rain shouldn’t be too disastrous.

Early rain cleared and I began Saturday by buying two 25kg bags of mortar (no groaning from the car, this time). I returned to set about repairing the damaged wall by removing the loosened bricks, cleaning off the old mortar and relaying them. That took care of one bag of mortar. I’m no bricklayer but the wall is a whole lot better than it was. In the remaining hours of the afternoon I got the remaining mortar between my newly levelled slabs.

There’s a few more fiddly bits of repairing to do but I’ve broken the back of Project Patio. With all that lifting, I’ve darn nearly broken my own back, too. 🙂

Striking Advantage

So, our glorious Royal Mail workers have just been striking for two days thus generating lots of work clearing a backlog of letters to be delivered. What are the workers striking for? Modernization plans that they think will threaten their job security, apparently. “Let’s go on strike over job security.” Christ! These days if everyone went on strike because of concerns over their job security, there’d be absolutely no one at work – everyone would be on strike.

No doubt we’ll get more days of strikes in the coming weeks. That should push more customers away from Royal Mail into the hands of the competition (where there is some). Once gone they a lost customer is unlikely to return, in my experience. That ought to reduce the Royal Mail business even further thus endangering even more jobs. Wait a minute though, weren’t the workers going on strike to improve job security? Duh!

It is such a pity that Joe Public has no viable alternative for his letters – the ever decreasing numbers that still actually communicate on paper as opposed to electronically, that is. A monopoly, in this day and age? Surely not.

All is not gloom and despondency, though – there is one enormous advantage to these postal strikes. About 90% of what our postman puts through our door must be unsolicited junk mail that goes into the recycling bin after it has cluttered up our breakfast bar for a day or so. I once remarked on the volume of junk mail that our erstwhile chatty postman was forced to deliver but he said, “I don’t mind it, it’s the junk mail that keeps me in a job.” Strike days are great ‘cos we no longer get snowed under by junk mail.

Back on strike, lads. Keep killing your own jobs off.

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France, 2009 – Retrospective

We’ve been back from France for two weeks now and Autumn is definitely with us. I’ve finally finished sorting and processing our photographs which naturally jog the memories and prompt a little backward reflection.

The weather was great. I’m even more convinced now that the main ingredient required for a good time is good weather. Given our enjoyment of walking, cycling and generally living outside, without it we’d be pretty much screwed. During our six weeks trip we had just two mornings that were wet and two overnight downpours. The rest of the time was dry and, for the most part, very sunny with my good ol’ favourite clear blue skies.

Le Puy-en-Velay: home of lava, lentils and lace. The other advantage that settled weather brings is the ability to travel to different places with impunity. We’d been wanting to head east towards pastures new in the French Alps for a couple of years but, if there’s any bad weather about, mountains tend to attract it. No problems this year, the east was clear. We started off down the centre of France at a tried and trusted spot before striking out southeast to pastures new. Le Puy-en-Velay and Die were fun but our original target, Barcelonnette in the Mercantour, didn’t appeal and we left immediately heading towards Digne-les-Bains in Provence. Much better. Then we tacked back west through Les Alpilles heading for Carol’s birthday lunch at Marseillan harbour where we were surprised and delighted to be joined by our friends Steve and Rosemary, along with their new tent, to help us celebrate. Excellent! They were in France anyway but it was a long way down to the south for them. Thank you both.

Rusting wartime cars in Oradour-sur-Glane One of my strongest memories will be the martyr village of Oradour-sur-Glane on the way back north (near Limoges). It was the site of a dreadful Nazi massacre in 1944, our second such site on this trip after the Vercors Massif. The ruins of the original village of Oradour-sur-Glane have been preserved magnificently just as the Germans left them. It’s an extraordinarily emotive place that brings tears to my eyes every time I look back at the photographs. If you get the chance, visit it.

Sombre wartime memories aside, we had a wonderful time and are missing the Indian summer weather. I was intrigued to find that even the French referred to it as l’été Indien.

Praying Mantis watching me It was our longest trip yet covering 3,200 miles and we pressed our cameras’ shutters about 1400 times between us. About 400 of mine must have been aimed at insects, mostly dragonflies and damselflies. Still, it’s good to have an interest. 😉 As in the days of film, we’ve discarded over 50%. What I hope is a representative, not-too-large selection (60) of the remaining shots is now published here:

http://www.curdhome.co.uk/photos/2009_France/index.htm

We are going to have to find some way of brightening up the coming winter.

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Eating Frogs Legs

This is by way of another retrospective post from our sadly now complete recent tour around La Belle France. I’m still engaged in processing our digital images trying to select those that I think will make a representative web album of our trip and I’ve come across a shot that I perhaps don’t want to include but which I think shouldn’t go unpublished.

Nature is one of our shared interests and takes up quite a bit of our time on these trips. Some places appeal to us simply because they are rich in wildlife. One such place is Camping Les Brugues, a dairy sheep farm just outside Fanjeaux. The fact that it is also one of France’s finest campsites doesn’t hurt. The site borders a small lake which seems to be teaming with wildlife including birds, dragonflies, coypus and frogs; thousands of frogs. We met one couple a few years ago who shut all their windows and vents because the nightly chorus of frogs kept them awake. [Ed: Sad; I lie awake enthralled listening to it.]

Eating frogs legs We are all familiar with the French eating grenouille. We’ve even given them a less than complimentary nickname because of it. Here, though, is photographic evidence the Frogs do, indeed, eat frogs’ legs. Well, at least, they try. I can’t help but think that this one tried to bite off more than it could chew, though. Normally, the frog’s legs would be separated from the hapless frog before anyone attempted to consume them. Not in this case.

Still eating frogs legsI knew that tadpoles were cannibalistic and would greedily devour each other but I thought frogs were supposed to catch flies rather than each other. This particular green cannibal was so tenacious that, when I snapped a little too close and scared it, it jumped into the lake and still did not let go.

We’re not sure of the outcome but Carol thinks she saw a less-than-happy looking frog on its back which subsequently disappeared. There was clearly no way this frog was going to swallow something half its size and survive so we suspect that contact was eventually broken.

Gruesome, though, isn’t it?

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Franco-Roman Innumeracy?

I think so, not that I’m a great expert on Roman Numerals.

Foreground cross, background chateau of Roquefixade.At home processing our collection of photographs, this is something of an addendum to our recently completed trip around France. One of the places Carol and I visited was Roquefixade. The village nestles beneath a so-called Cathar castle built on a precarious-looking precipice overlooking the village. On our way up to the castle ruins we passed a stone cross which I snapped as some foreground interest when taking a distance shot of the castle for context. I took little more notice of the cross at that time.

Confusing cross When we were returning from our climb we passed by the cross again and, just because I was wasting only reusable pixels, I snapped the cross again. Apart from some fancy scroll work, it bore a date in Roman numerals. I looked harder – something didn’t ring true. The engraving clearly reads:

MCMDXXXVI

That can’t be right, can it? “MCM” is Roman for 1900 which, given the dates around here, seems odd enough but to follow that with “D” for 500 makes no sense, surely. I decided that if it meant anything, the 500 would be added to the 1900 which, along with the remaining “XXXVI” would give us 2436. I verified my calculation with a piece of software for converting between Roman numerals and decimal. I was actually expecting an error, I must confess, but, sure enough, out of the software popped 2436. The correct way to Romanize 2436 would be “MMCDXXXVI”, I think. Back to the software to convert 2436 the other way. Sure enough: “MMCDXXXVI”.

Could the stonemason have hacked a “D” when he should have hacked an “L”? “MCMLXXXVI” would at least be correct for 1986 but it still seems like an odd date.

I’ve no idea what that cross signifies or commemorates and I’ve no idea whether the Cathars used a weird calendar. Whatever the reason for that cross’s existence, though, that date just has to be wrong … doesn’t it?

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Bringing Home the Water

Well, we’re back for our first full day back at home after a wonderful trip around France and feeling a little cool. The larder was bare so we popped out shopping to get supplies. Carol fancied something warming and suggested a Spaghetti Bolognese so I popped the ingredients into our shopping trolley … or I thought I had. It was down to the frozen brain again probably but, when I came to begin preparation I discovered that “Mr University Challenged” had forgotten the bacon. Drat!

Carol ran me quickly round to the local Co-op and I bought a pack of “The co-operative British unsmoked rindless back bacon”.

The package appeared to contain nothing but rashers of bacon. Therefore it came as something of a surprise when I noticed that the very next line on the package label, in relatively large print, read:

86% Pork
 

What?!

The following two items on the labelling were “Quality Bacon Standard” and “Assured Food Standards” marks.

The back of the packet, in rather smaller print, made it clear that the vast majority of the missing 14% was water. I realized water was frequently injected but I don’t think I realized to what extent. 1/7th of what I’d bought and paid nearly £5 per pound for was water.

In my humble opinion, “Quality Bacon” is 100% pork, allowing a few decimal points to cover necessary preservative for shelf life, of course – I still don’t want to eat mould.

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Early Ferry

I had a reservation on P&O’s 1:10 PM ferry from Calais to Dover. It’s about 120mls/200kms from Neufchatel-en-Bray to Calais, about 2½ hrs towing. We were ready to leave the campsite by 9:00 AM so we hit the road and began to bid farewell to France for this year.

We had some wind assistance and, even after a fuel stop so I could complete the UK 120mls without stopping, we drove into Calais ferry port at about 11:15 AM. UK border control asked where we had last stopped. Since it was 120mls away they were less concerned about illegal stowaways and let us through swiftly. A very smiley P&O assistant checked us in and told us we’d be sailing in 10 minutes. Great! We drove to the boarding lane which was already empty and were waved straight onto the ferry. Very shortly after boarding they shut the ferry doors and we were off, 1½ hours early. Perfect! What a stroke of luck.

Unlike yesterday, the crossing was smooth and the weather in the channel was fair. Everything else went smoothly until we hit the northern stretch of the jaM25 motorway. Brakes, out of gear, handbrake on, sit on the country’s most major road like lemons in a stop-crawl queue for 30 minutes to do a few miles. Then, with no blockage in site, it clears and we’re off. And this is an off-season Sunday  early afternoon. Almost every time we return from relatively trouble-free driving around France, the UK roads stress one out in an hour or two.

Never mind, Billy is back in his field and we are home safely. Time to start planning our next escape.

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Last Stop

It was an easy 120mls/200kms from Chartres to our now habitual final stop in France at Neufchâtel-en-Bray in Normandy. Neufchâtel-en-Bray is a pleasant though unremarkable town in many ways, though it does boast an appellation contrôlée cheese which, I must confess, is one of this particular cheese addict’s least favourites. It’s two main attractions as our exit route are that it:

  1. has a conscientiously run and managed campsite that is open for what the French would regard as an extended season;
  2. has a very good Leclerc supermarket essential for last day booty hunting plus relatively cheap fuel for the run to Calais.

You’d think after a full six weeks of living in a caravan touring from place to place that I’d have it down pat, wouldn’t you? It seems not. When the conscientious management at the campsite shepherded us to our pitch I levelled the van and began connecting up all the essential services: water, waste and electricity hook-up. I, or rather Billy, didn’t seem to get any electricity. This is not particularly unusual since sometimes the circuit breakers in the connection boxes of the site pop with overenthusiastic campers trying to suck too many amps out of a restricted system (typically they are 6 amp). I tried a second connection point: same result. I tried a further two connection points: same result in both cases. I checked our on-board trip switches: they were fine. I went to report my problem to the conscientious management who promptly turned up to check their trip switches: they were all fine. Bemusement. I turned to recheck the caravan and had one of those “will the ground please open and swallow me up” moments. In my haste I’d connected our mains cable to the campsite supply but the other end lay on the ground beneath our battery box; I’d distracted myself and forgotten to connect it to our van. Unbelievable!

I apologized profusely for my stupidity in my very best French to the conscientious campsite management who responded by insisting, in their very best French, that it was not a problem. What must they think?

It’s overcast and cool. Maybe the cold froze my few remaining neurones. 🙁

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