Bienvenue en France

Another fine morning with another fine day in prospect, albeit with a similar cold northerly(ish) wind. We decided against giving the legs a rest and embarked upon one of neighbour Chris’s favourite walks. This would start and end in Kingston (where I spotted a very handy looking pub to refresh foot-weary walkers), taking us to Kimmeridge Bay and along the coast to the curiously named Houns-tout Cliff – sounds vaguely French.

We parked in Sheeps Pen car park and struck out towards Swyre Head through some of the aforementioned sheep. We started in the shelter of one of this region’s many skilfully made dry stone walls. Carol’s phone beeped with a message which at least indicated the presence of some kind of mobile signal. “Welcome to France” it proclaimed, wittily. Gobsmacked! How wide is the English Channel at this point? It must be 100 miles-ish ‘cos it takes ferries 4 – 6 hours to make the crossing from here. At the campsite we can’t pick up a signal from England but here, near the coast, we seemed to be picking one up from France. Nah, surely not.

The coastal view from near Swyre HeadPleased to be back in our beloved France, we continued along a very windy, exposed ridge towards Kimmeridge itself and Kimmeridge Bay beneath. I failed to spot a pub in Kimmeridge – must be some kind of oversight – but the church was quaint, housing several graves of la familie Clavell Mansell who seemed particularly keen on the rifle regiment.

Fossil hunters in Kimmeridge BayWe’re on the so-called Jurassic coast or fossil coast. Kimmeridge Bay was full of people calmly pulling apart the cliffs and smashing small bits of rock against large bits of rock looking for fossils. I began wondering if there had been a bay here at all originally or whether it may have been picked into existence by masses of fossil hunters. You’re not supposed to use hammers but you don’t seem to need a hammer to break bits off the cliff. Folks were managing admirably with their bare hands.

Clavell Tower behind its original foundations at the cliff's edge Overlooking Kimmeridge Bay is an imposing folly called Clavell Tower. There’s that name again. Clavell Tower is now owned by the Landmark Trust, the same chaps that own Wortham Manor where we recently stayed to celebrate Rosemary’s birthday. They’ve had to do some serious work on this property, dismantling it and moving it back from the cliff’s edge. Clearly I wasn’t the only one worried about the rate of erosion caused by those fossil hunters.

I took my phone out to tweet. Unbeknownst to me it had received a message: “Welcome to France. Calls to the UK are 35ppm …”. Mon Dieu, moi aussi!

We continued along a roller-coaster coast towards that intriguingly named Houns-tout Cliff. As we approached the scale becomes evident; it looked like a beast of a climb. We carried on perhaps just a little daunted and scaled it. As I reached the summit I came across a chap sitting on a bench admiring the view. From his accent, I suspect he was German. As we were taking a snap or two, his phone beeped. He laughed. It seemed that his phone had just welcomed him to France as well. Weird!

Corfe Castle from the comfort of a pintThe descent of Houns-tout Cliff was even more precipitous than the ascent but it was the only realistic way of finishing our 10 miles and getting to that pub I’d spotted in Kingston for a well deserved beer. It had good views of Corfe Castle in the distance, too.

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Off-Piste to Old Harry

First full day in Dorset and a large amount of blue sky – my favourite colour! There was also quite a large amount of north-easterly wind keeping the temperature down but it looked like a fine day for walking. When the wind swings round to the west, things warm but tend to get wetter; we’d much rather have cooler and dry. Happy campers!

Our neighbours at home, Chris and Derek, are Ramblers and had kindly lent us a detailed leisure map (2 inches = 1 mile) of the so-called Isle of Purbeck, which is where we are. It isn’t an isle, not even close, but who’s counting? We need a few quaint, inexplicable names. Chris and Derek had also lent us a book of the Ramblers Association’s top 50 British walks, one of which is a mere stones throw away. Off we set.

Agglestone Rock towering above Godlingston Heath This walk was a 10km/6½ml circular walk taking in a section of the coast path passing The Pinnacles and Old Harry Rock at Handfast Point. We began by crossing part of Godlingston Heath nature reserve to Agglestone Rock, a large lump of sandstone supposedly catapulted here by Satan. What a little devil he was! It does look quite impressive, standing here overlooking the heath all alone. Being sandstone, Agglestone Rock is very soft so generations of artistic degenerates have seen fit to deface it by carving various initials in it. Looking and admiring is apparently insufficient entertainment for some.

Godlingston Heath is a stronghold of the endangered Dartford Warbler. Did we see one? Unfortunately not. It is also home to all 6 species of British reptile. Did we see any? Again, no. Hardly surprising really since, armed both with a description of our route and with a highly detailed map, we still managed to miss a turn or two and go off-piste. If we couldn’t see something as large as the correct track, what chance had we of seeing any shy and retiring wildlife? :))

The Pinnacles Old Harry Rock Never mind, we realised and recovered our mistakes nicely and regained the correct route, making it to what seemed to be the main goal of this walk, The Pinnacles and Old Harry Rock. The Pinnacles are similar stack formations to the Twelve Apostles (now only six or seven) on Australia’s south coast. I think we both found them to be to be visually more impressive than the more famous Old Harry. Oh, and “Old Harry” was apparently a mediaeval name for the Devil who used to sleep on top of it, when he wasn’t tossing Agglestone Rock onto Godlingston Heath.

My GPS reckoned the walk was more like 7½ miles, to which we added another 2 miles food shopping in Wareham. Wareham is a very pleasant old Saxon town that would benefit from better parking facilities. Great day, great walk – most enjoyable.

When we returned to the campsite with our booty, to the puzzlement of the management, we moved pitches to get further away from the main thoroughfare and kids on bicycles with gravel-crunching stabilizers. 😉

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To the Back of Beyond

I’ve been to Dorset before but it was so long ago that I really have no recollection about it. So essentially, our journey into Dorset today was taking me into pastures new so I was quite excited. It’s also a bit of a departure for us because we were heading for a commercial campsite, not a Caravan Club site nor a Caravan Club CL (Certificated Location – a field of 5 vans with no facilities which is generally our preferred type of haunt). The reason for this deviation is that this is our twice postponed – once for health and once for snow – New Year trip. Originally, we needed an all year hard-standing site.

We left right on schedule at 10:00 AM and after a pleasantly uneventful 3½ hours of travelling we were checking in. We’d been allocated a pitch so that took away any decision making on our part. We’re sometimes not good at making pitch selection decisions – we’ve only been doing it for 25 years, after all. The grass pitches are still not being used so hard-standing it was; not our favourite but quite understandable. Billy’s mover behaved itself and we were soon pitched up.

I’d promised to call my mother and let her know when we were safely installed. I turn on my mobile and prepared to invest a little cash in maintaining family relations. No signal, not a single bar! Unbelievable!! Are we stuck in the wilds of the Scottish glens? Are we in some forgotten hinterland? Are we in the back of beyond? You wouldn’t have thought so; there are three large campsites down this road and we are a mere 3 or 4 miles from Wareham – not that far from Swanage. This is Touristville, Dorset – a central part of the overcrowded English south coast. There are some trees around and a few less-than-serious hills topping out at about 600 feet but I would have hoped there wasn’t anything significant enough to stop a mobile signal. This technology might be useful one day, when we can make it work.

I wandered up to the main gate where my phone eventually condescended to give me a single bar of signal strength and checked-in with mater. All was well, other than having to strain to hear over the road traffic and cars entering the campsite.

I spotted some other poor soul suffering from technological advancement standing on the grassy play area near the main gate on a mobile phone. Strewth!

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Dorset Preparations

At last, after a long wait and an even longer winter, ‘t was time to wake up our hibernating Billy Bailey from his storage field and make preparations for two weeks in Dorset. I actually collected him on Friday so I’d have all day Saturday for spring cleaning. To refresh my memory as much as anything else, I parked him in front of our house using the fancy remote control mover. The mover has power actuators which drive the actually mover motors onto and off of the caravan’s wheels. It took a while but I remembered how to activate them and drive him into his preparation spot. I pressed buttons to remove the driving motors. Only one came off, the other remained firmly in place. Repeated attempts produced the same result.

I felt like a pilot coming into land when the co-pilot calmly informs you that only one undercarriage leg is down and locked. There is a manual removal mechanism requiring many turns of a spanner; the flying analogy continues with visions of Memphis Belle, frantically winding down the starboard undercarriage leg manually. I summoned an engineer who’s coming the day after we get back. I waggled a few wires around attached to the remote controller’s main control box and lo, all was now well. Relief! Something needs looking at, though.

Saturday preparations went well but I really must stop trying to multi-thread. That’s a skill requiring the female of the species. Whilst loading Billy and our car, I fired up some charcoal to barbecue a fine-looking Gressingham duck. I continued loading. After 45 minutes or so the briquettes were ready so I hastily decanted them into my trusty Weber and, even more hastily, slashed the skin of our duck and popped it in to cook. I finished loading.

90 minutes does a small duck nicely with most of the fat running out. I removed our fine-looking Gressingham duck. My heart sank as I noticed the duck’s tail (it’s parsons nose) was still bent back and tucked into it’s body cavity. Firstly I removed the parson’s nose. Secondly I removed the plastic bag of giblets from inside our fine-looking Gressingham duck’s body cavity. ARGHH! In my multi-tasking haste, I’d completely forgotten that, unlike prepared chickens, prepared ducks come with their giblets (or accessories, as one Farmer’s Market lady likes to call them) tucked inside them. The giblets were bubbling away inside their plastic bag and seemed quite well cooked.

All was well, the plastic had not melted and the duck was delicious. No more multi-tasking, though!

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Loyalty Penalties

Since our beloved Mazda MX5 (a.k.a. “Mazzie”) is now 11 years old, for the last two years I’ve taken out breakdown and recovery cover with the AA. Although most of our longer journeys are in our tow car, it seemed sensible not to worry unduly when we were at home and we were blessed with an all-too-rare pleasant day. I went for the Roadside and Relay options.

Just prior to our recent trip to Devon, my renewal notice arrived. With Devon planning uppermost in our minds, I left it until our return. On Monday I started dealing with it. The renewal notice wanted £108.00 – £50.00 for the Roadside option and £58.00 for the Relay option (recovery of disabled vehicle either to preferred repairer or home). I began looking for alternatives.

Imagine my annoyance when I looked at the AA website and was quoted £69.00 for exactly the same cover as a new member. Worse, as a new member I could apparently include the additional Home Start option (which I don’t currently have) for £31.00, a total of £100.00, still £8.00 less than my renewal notice without Home Start. (Incidentally, my renewal notice wanted £50.50 for Home Start.)

As an existing member, even one who had not made a call out, the AA was penalizing me to the tune of £39.00, a thumping 56.5% of what a new member was being asked to pay.

I investigated Green Flag and got a quote for similar cover down to £71.40. I investigated the Caravan Club’s Mayday cover (operated by Green Flag) and found their equivalent (perhaps slightly superior) cover to be £62.00.

I phoned the AA and asked to cancel my membership. I was put through to a customer service agent who had been told that I was unhappy about the price (which I had not yet said) and that he “could do something about it”. You’re damn right I wasn’t happy about the price but by now I was determined to go elsewhere on a matter of principle. I wasn’t happy about being taken for a mug on my renewal notice. I went with the Caravan Club’s Mayday cover.

Penalizing existing customers seems to be a common theme in our modern world. We have to go through the pain of changing car insurers every year to get the best deals because new customers get a discount. I’ll have to do that for Mazzie in May for his insurance. Constant change is both time consuming and stressful (when it comes to No Claims Bonus proof, anyway).

What happened to valuing customer loyalty? Now it’s always existing customers that get penalized almost forcing them to jump ship. The whole ethos is intensely irritating. I happen to think it’s also completely stupid. Not that I was actually a salesman but, in a sales situation I was taught to value repeat business and to hang on to existing customers. Once you’ve lost an existing customer it’s harder to win them back than to win brand new ones ‘cos those who left you did so for a reason. In this case the reason is being penalized and taken for mugs.

We’ve completely lost it.

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Black Power

To clarify immediately, my title has nothing to do with any political position. Rather, it is to do with photographic backgrounds.

Cygnet Grey Squirrel BuzzardRelatively recently I was sorting through some older pictures taken some years ago on real film – Fuji Velvia 50 to be precise. I came across a few wildlife shots that coincidentally ended up having a black, or almost black, background. Looking at the results, I wish I could claim a level of design in the results but they were down to luck or, at least, circumstances beyond my control. The Buzzard (I think it’s a Buzzard) was a rescued bird in a sanctuary and happened to be perching in front of the very dark interior of its shelter. The Grey Squirrel was in our back garden, which backs onto woodland, and, somehow, the dark light under the trees turned out black. The almost-adult Cygnet with the wet-effect hair was on our local canal, The Grand Union, and the background canal/vegetation has come out not quite black but at least a very dark grey. (I could probably become a photoshopographer and fake it. 😯 Nah!)

Tulip SunflowerCarol is our flower specialist but occasionally I dip my toes into the water. Flowers, of course, have one distinct advantage over wildlife in that they tend not to take fright and run away when you rearrange the world around them. Thus I seem to remember trying to engineer the v. dark background behind these two flower shots, a sunflower and a tulip. If memory serves, I stood a very dark redwood table on end behind the subject which seems to have worked pretty well, considering.

Green-veined_WhiteFinally, into last year and my then brave new world of digital photography. I spent much of 2009 chasing a mixture of lepidoptera (butterflies and moths) and odonata (dragonflies and damselflies). Once again fortune stepped in and produced this shot of a Green-veined White butterfly feeding on a delightfully lit thistle head. I don’t think I could have wished for a better background and, given the quite strong light, I honestly don’t understand how it came about.

Whether by accident or by design, I do like the way that a black background produces what seems like a quite powerful image.

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Ray of False Hope

Our Devon world looked a little brighter this morning in that the rain had ceased and, surprise of surprises, even the sun put in the occasional appearance under the still threatening clouds. Having studied yesterday’s weather forecast for today, however, I wasn’t particularly hopeful that the improvement would be very long lived. Nonetheless, after a leisurely breakfast consisting mainly of coffee, Carol and I set off to investigate Plymouth leaving Rosemary and Steve to be visited by friends.

Just as “one swallow does not a summer make”, neither “does one brief glimpse of sun a dry day make”. ‘T was obvious from the colour of the sky ahead of us that we were heading in an ill-chosen direction and, sure enough, exactly as we drove across a line marking the beginning of the Dartmoor Park, the rain once again began falling. How appropriate! By the time we found the Plymouth Park & Ride scheme, it was falling quite hard.

Riding on a bus for the first time in more years than I can count was quite enjoyable. The scheme was excellent and we were soon alighting near The Hoe. As luck would have it we’d hit a rain intermission, too, so we stowed the umbrellas and struck out for Carol’s main objective. The naval memorial at The Hoe bears the name of her great uncle who was killed on HMS Defence in the Battle of Jutland on 1st June, 1916. No sooner had Carol located her great uncle’s name on the memorial than the rain started up again so she grabbed a photo or two, we redeployed our briefly stowed umbrellas and headed back towards the covered Pannier Market looking for a roof and supplies for the evening.

As befits a coastal town, Plymouth’s Pannier Market sported a couple of excellent looking fish counters where we couldn’t resist a couple of gurnard for our last night’s dinner in Devon. If we don’t have any sunshine, at least we could prepare sunshine food so we grabbed the ingredients for a reliable ratatouille to go with them.

Not being a day for sauntering and taking in the sights, we didn’t get to see very much of Plymouth but, on our limited experience, neither of us was particularly impressed. I’m no historian but, given that Plymouth is a naval dockyard, I imagine it suffered considerably during WWII. For whatever reason its current architectural style, or lack of it, seems to share much in common with Aylesbury (where I spent considerable years working) in being largely very unattractive 1960s concrete. Now that we know how to deal with the Park & Ride scheme, we’ll have to return for a better look, including the waterfront, during more conducive weather.

Here we are back at Wortham Manor for our final evening and it is still raining. The near constant rain during our visit has transcended the merely boring and has reached the heights of thoroughly frustrating. It’s been raining for 5½ days out of 7 and not just showers, consistent day-long rain.

We will have spent an enjoyable week in truly memorable surroundings with excellent company but it will have been in weather which has been as bad as any I can remember.

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Year of the Jigsaw

Tessa & Robin, Selina and partner all left yesterday followed by Mike and LInda this morning. Having got as far as Swindon, Mike and Linda reported reasonable conditions so it seems as though Devon and Cornwall may have been singled out for special meteorological attention. There can’t be much water left in the Atlantic ‘cos most of it has been dumped around us over the last few days. A hardcore of four of us remain.

I know that the Chinese have the Year of the Cat (cue Al Stewart), the Year of the Tiger and the years of various other interesting creatures but I don’t believe that they have the Year of the Jigsaw. They should have – and this should be it. Recently we spent an enjoyable though rather wetter than anticipated two weeks in Spain during the first week of which Carol spent much time solving jigsaw puzzles in the company of our hosts while outside the rain fell. Now, here we are in Devon celebrating Rosemary’s 60th and the vindictive god of meteorology is chucking rain at us again. It rained throughout last night and is still raining today We have now had rain four and a half days out of the six that we have thus far been here. Once again a jigsaw puzzle is maintaining the sanity of three of the remaining four weather prisoners.

Since there is little else happening today, here’s a few further pictures of our accommodation:

IMG_5604_Wortham_Manor IMG_5579_Muddy_parking_arrangements IMG_4569_Baronial_Birthday_Bedroom IMG_4570_Baronial_Lounge_1 IMG_4565_Baronial_Scullery_Jigsaws

On the brighter side, this tiresome weather does enable one to catch up on one’s blogging. 😉

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Roller-Coaster Coast

After a disturbed, restless night for Mike fretting about potentially collapsing house sales, we awoke to yet more of the depressing wet stuff. With the almost constant farm traffic up and down the track between Wortham Manor and the tarmacked road, conditions outside have deteriorated to a scene that would have been at home at the Battle of the Somme. Though regular cars do not actually seem to be losing traction, 4x4s are more comforting. Tractors and caterpillar-track-laying vehicles would be more comforting still. The grass strip outside the building, with only foot traffic, is also becoming waterlogged and treacherous. Our considered opinion is that, with a house that rents for £3500 per week in winter and about £5000 per week in summer, the Landmark Trust really should do something to sort out the access and parking.

Largely to divert Mike from his mental turmoil, despite the rain we took a trip to Bude on the north Cornwall coast. When we arrived and parked, Mike delivered the news that their contracts had been exchanged and all was well, their house sale would complete in just over a week. Bude wasn’t particularly appealing but, with a collective sigh of relief, we didn’t much care now. We began tacking our way back down the coast road towards Crackington Haven.

Carol knows no bounds with an Ordnance Survey map in her hand and we soon ended up on a dramatic, largely single-track roller coaster of a road with hairpin bends mixed in with comforting signs announcing descents and ascents having a gradient of 30% (1-in-3). Yikes! Both cars being equipped with Honda 2.2CTDi engines, we bravely carried on regardless and negotiated the worst that Cornwall could throw at us. It was certainly the most challenging road that I’ve personally seen in Cornwall. Having made it to the top of the most “interesting” section, we spotted a couple of intriguing signs.

We spotted the first sign on a lonesome house atop a hill. Though seemingly standing all alone, the house proudly displayed a “Neighbourhood Watch” sign. Curious.

The second sign occurred at intervals beside our difficult-enough–to-drive-along road. Despite having 1-in-3 gradients, this road was apparently designated as being part of the Sustrans National Cycle Network route 3. Strewth! I know I am not the fittest person in the world but on a bicycle I can just about manage a 1-in-7 hill, which should preferably be one that is a short, sharp shock; if it drags on too long, I’m going to have trouble. I have yet to meet anyone capable of cycling up a 1-in-3 hill, certainly not up a long and persistent 1-in-3 hill. It’s hard enough to push a bicycle up a 1-in-3 gradient. Armed with a bike, I’ve been down Chimney Bank, a 1-in-3 hill in Yorkshire, which greets cyclists with an instruction to dismount in order to descend in safety. Most bicycle brakes won’t hold you back on a 1-in-3 descent. Whilst I applaud the concept of the National Cycle Network as being a wonderful idea, I would have thought that its planners might have paid a little attention to the physical suitability of the routes chosen. Good grief, they have to be joking!

Crackington Haven turned out to very pleasant in a dramatic coastal views kind of way and, furthermore, provided an enjoyable pub serving Cornish Rattler cider accompanied by fish and chips for lunch.

The rain continued unabated all day long.

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Lovely Weather for Otters

IMG_5646_Young_Blue_Eyes It was back – we woke to rain which continued all morning. The farmer adjacent to Wortham Manor had invited us to go and see his new calves so this decidedly damp morning seemed like a good time to do so. At least, it seemed to some, those with a less strong aversion to rain, to be a good time to do so. With this latest rain following close on the heals of our previous 36 hours-worth of rain, the track down to the Wortham Manor has become a muddy mess so walking boots were necessary. Despite having a strongly developed attraction to animals of all sorts (dogs excepted), I also have a particularly well-developed aversion to rain and mud so I soon tired of standing out in both muttering, “ah, sweet” at admittedly painfully cute calves.

The weather brightened by 2:00PM so everyone was eager to escape their weather-enforced prison. While Steve took Rosemary & Linda to visit a “riveting” so-called chair museum [Ed: well, someone must find chairs fascinating], Carol and I decided upon a visit to the Tamar Otter Sanctuary just a few miles away along some typically narrow Devon lanes. Mike elected to come with us. Despite there being three cars in the car park, there was a disappointing sign declaring that the otter sanctuary was “closed until April 1st”. Drat!

IMG_4548_Buzzard Somewhat dampened by the lack of otters as opposed to the presence of rain, we paused on our return journey at an interesting looking bridge over the river Tamar. Beside the river and accessible only from it was a gate into a field. Beside the bridge was a track leading into the river. It seems that, to gain access to the field, it is necessary to ford your way through the river; a curious arrangement requiring decent 4x4s such as Land Rovers, I would think. Whilst studying the traffic flow of the river Tamar, a couple of buzzards treated us to a reasonably close display of their flying skills. Buzzards are doing very well in England and, though relatively commonplace now, are a delight to see.

IMG_5675_Orange_Peel_Fungus Mike’s spirits were further dampened by phone call announcing a problem which had developed over their house sale – their house in England, that is. They have been trying to sell it for a year in order to live full-time in France. Today they were supposed to exchange contracts. As a diversion and consolation prize for unavailable otters, we zoomed off to Roadford Lake, a reservoir, where there was a nature reserve at the northern end. We arrived and found a very well positioned observation hide. We amused ourselves for half an hour or so watching an interesting array of water fowl but none of them were venturing close enough for my new-and-eager-to-be-used long lens. As we were leaving Mike, who is quite knowledgeable about fungi even when depressed about house sales, spotted this Scarlet Elf Cup fungus (Sarcoscypha coccinea).

‘T was a pity about the otters. I’m sure the new lens would have liked them.

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